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Betta fish community talk.
Share tip take care, Tip knowledge, Blog tip from breeder over 20 years experience : https://www.nicebettathailand.com/

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Betta Tuberculosis Before we get started to learn about betta tuberculosis we should know that it’s quite rare for bettas to contract tuberculosis, so don’t panic if your betta fish starts exhibiting one of the symptoms that can be indicative of TB. The chances are it’s a different illness altogether and with the right treatment your betta will make a recovery. What is Tuberculosis? Siamese fighting fish or betta tuberculosis is a slow-blooming disease that a betta can have for up to 6 months before exhibiting any symptoms. Ultimately, the bacteria will attack the internal organs (especially liver and kidneys), causing organ failure. This is when the symptoms of TB will show – such as raised scales, bloated body – and will be swiftly followed by death. This is the only fish disease known to be contagious to man, although the good news is it’s very hard to contract tuberculosis from a fish. Fish tuberculosis can be resident in water but has also been linked to live foods (researchers found cases of live foods infected by tuberculosis), and is mainly passed by ingestion (eating contaminated live food, or eating a dead fish that was a carrier, etc…) Betta Tuberculosis Symptoms If your betta is suffering from tuberculosis, its health will suddenly start to deteriorate. He or she may start losing weight, grow body deformities such as popeye, suffer from bloated gills and scales, red clamped gills, raised scales (otherwise known as pine-coning), fin rot and body rot, red patches on its body and grey lesions along its side. The symptoms can really vary with tuberculosis — a betta can get some of them, none of them or all of them, but will die very soon after contraction if it is indeed tuberculosis that it’s suffering from. However, just because a betta has any of the symptoms shown above, it doesn’t necessarily mean it has tuberculosis — it could be symptomatic of a different illness as well. Possible Cures Betta Tuberculosis Sadly, there are no cures for betta tuberculosis. By the time you find out your fish has tuberculosis, it’s too late to take action. The only way to safeguard against tuberculosis is by feeding it reliably-sourced live food, although as we’ve mentioned it is rare for a betta to contract TB so you shouldn’t worry too much. Live food that has been frozen is a good substitute if you can’t get non-frozen live good. Live microworms and vinegar eel are also fine as they are not known to carry tuberculosis. You should also buy your fish from reliable suppliers that you know stock healthy fish, especially if you are adding more than one fish to an aquarium. All it takes is for one fish infected with TB to be added to the aquarium and it will likely spread to them all. Betta tuberculosis summary Betta fish tuberculosis is caused by Mycobacteria spp. bacteria, which can be found in contaminated water or fresh food. This bacteria grows very slowly and shows clear symptoms after infection for a while. Sick fish will have symptoms of weight loss, thinness, constipation, bulging eyes, fin rot, and may have a swollen body or scales like drop-C disease. Diagnosis is difficult. Laboratory tests such as acid stain or tissue examination are required. There is no definite treatment. Fish must be culled and all equipment cleaned. The best prevention is to buy fish from reliable sources, avoid fresh food from unclean sources, and quarantine fish before bringing them into the larger system to prevent the spread of infection and reduce the risk of this serious disease in your pond or aquarium.

Nice Betta Thailand.CO.,LTD
WHY IS BETTA MISSING VENTRAL FINS Betta missing ventral fins one of the most frustrating things with Siamese fighting fish I have experienced is being excited about a spawn, only to have them reach 3-4 weeks of age and… the fry are missing ventrals. I thought it might be worth discussing the possible causes in hopes of helping other breeders since the discussions are rather decentralized around the web. The problem of missing ventral fins Feeding nematodes: banana worms, microworms, walter worms and vinegar eels Medications – especially those for treating velvet Water Quality Other factors? Feeding nematodes: banana worms, microworms, walter worms and vinegar eels This is complicated. The general belief is that the longer any nematode is fed to betta fish fry, espeically as the bulk of the diet, the fry will not have ventral fins. The fry in the photo was fed only banana worms for 3 weeks before adding in baby brine shrimp and other things. I’ve had other spawns where this was true too. But I’ve also had a few that were fed many nematodes and they were fine. There is some other factor at play. It is also a common theory that more bacteria forms on the bottom of the aquarium and it can eat away at the ventrals as the fry rub against the bottom of the aquarium. There is a definite tie to it being more likely to occur if the fry are fed any of the nematodes for long periods. I have found that if I siphon a fry aquarium daily and wipe the bottom if feeding nematodes, that the missing ventral problem occurs less often. Medications – especially those for treating velvet There is also a definite connection with treating fry for velvet with betta copper based medications especially that result in no ventrals. Of course, it is better to risk treating the fry than to let them die from velvet so that is a gamble most breeders will take. I’ve found that using either almond leaf extract or almond leaves often keeps the fry from getting velvet (and they are prone to it with my water). Water Quality No matter how frequently water changes are done or the bottom of the aquarium is wiped, bacteria or toxins can build if the fish are over crowded or food is left decaying in the aquarium for too long. This might possibly be a cause as well. Ideally it should be 2 fry per gallon when growing them out. Bacteria and parasites can definitely eat away fins, including ventrals. Water quality for betta fish health Other Factors I have been talking to an aquatic veterinarian about these issues and if water is too soft the fish cannot absorb enough calcium or magnesium to develop correctly. I will be conducting further tests to try to figure out the specific cause as my second spawn that came up missing ventrals only had vinegar eels for a week, then baby brine shrimp and I introduced pellets and gel foods at 3 weeks… still no ventrals. I’ve raised bettas in my water previously without missing ventrals so there is some other factor at work that I will have to figure out. Betta missing ventral fins summary Betta fry often lack ventral fins, especially during the first week after hatching, as the fins develop slowly and are fragile. One of the main causes is overfeeding tiny worms, such as microworms or vinegar eels, because when they are not eaten, the dead worms rot and breed bacteria. Bacteria from these rot worms can eat away at the pelvic fins as they develop at the bottom of the tank. Water quality also plays an important role — dirty water or water that contains debris increases the chances of problems. Some fish may bite each other’s or their mates’ pelvic fins because the fins resemble food while developing. This problem is not found to be hereditary because when the fry have this problem, the next generation that is fed with other food, such as brine shrimp, does not have this problem. The solution is to avoid overfeeding the worms, switch to baby brine shrimp or daphnia, and focus on good water quality. Rotten food scraps should be sucked out and water changed frequently to prevent bacteria from building up at the bottom of the tank. In conclusion, the lack of pelvic fins in fighting fish is usually due to environmental factors such as improper feeding, dirty water, or fighting each other, not directly due to genes — so the breeding should be adjusted to prevent this.

Nice Betta Thailand.CO.,LTD
How to Take Care of Betta Fish You’ve carefully weighed your options and decided on a Betta fish as your new pet – great choice! As far as fish go, bettas are one of the more intelligent species; they’ve been shown to recognize their owner and can even be taught to do tricks like pushing a ball through a ring with their noses. They’re also quite beautiful to look at with with their big, fluttering fins and brilliant coloring. Basic betta care for beginner These fish need just as much care, and in some cases even more, than their warm-blooded counterparts. Below, we’ll cover all of the pet care basics that new and prospective betta owners need to know. Building Your New Betta’s Home Before running out to the pet store and picking out your new fish, it’s important to have everything you need. Talk to the fish specialist at the pet store about their recommendations. Here are the supplies and equipment you’ll need in order to own a bettas: A five-gallon (or larger) fish bowl, tank or aquarium. A betta fish can live in a bowl as small as one gallon, but it is not recommended. Food in the form of pellets and insects. A thermometer to read the water temperature. These aren’t necessary, but you can purchase decorations (including live and artificial plants or floating driftwood pieces) or store-bought tank accessories for your betta’s bowl. Bettas are a rare type of fish (called labyrinth fish) that have the ability to absorb oxygen from air as well as through their gills when in water. This is why betta fish have a higher tolerance for poor water quality and don’t necessarily need water filters or aerators. That said, a betta fish bowl still needs to be cleaned and its water changed regularly to keep it happy and healthy. With proper care, your pet betta fish can live anywhere between two and four years, sometimes even longer. Setting Up a New Betta Bowl First, rinse your decorations with warm water to remove any impurities. Then place your decorations into the bowl and set up any filter equipment that you want to include inside the bowl or tank. Bettas thrive in water temperature that’s between 77 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit and small fishbowls cannot support heaters. It’s extremely important that you don’t place the bowl near air conditioners, vents, direct sunlight or anywhere else that could affect the water temperature or quality. Once you’ve got the furnishings in place, fill the bowl with bottled, filtered water or with water specifically labeled for bettas. Do not use tap water when changing your betta’s water or setting up its bowl, as it has harmful trace elements like chloramine, chlorine and heavy metals that can kill your fish. If tap water is your only available option, use it after pretreating it with Novaqua plus Amquel (to remove chlorine) plus aquarium salt (never table salt). Ask an expert at your local pet store for the right products to safely treat tap water (called conditioning) before attempting to treat your water at home. Fish are highly sensitive to fluctuating water conditions, so you’ll need to acclimate your betta to its new home by putting it into a separate container (like a big glass) along with half the water that came with it from the pet store. Let the fish and water stand for about half an hour or until the temperature of the store water is equal to the water in the fishbowl. Then, add an equal amount of water from the fishbowl into the container with the fish, letting stand for about 20 minutes as the fish adjusts to change. Once the fish has adjusted, use a small fish net to remove the betta from the container and place it in the fishbowl. Keep the bowl and any containers your betta will be in covered with a lid that has hole in it for airflow, as betta fish can jump. Water Changes and Full Cleaning Never change the water in your betta’s tank all at once, as sudden fluctuations could end up being fatal. Instead, replace your betta’s water in 20-25 percent portions, preparing a few gallons of water ahead of time to cut down on your wait time. Water changes for betta bowls that don’t have filtration units should be done weekly while those with units can be done every two weeks. When it’s time for full cleaning, pour about 50 percent of the water from the fish bowl into a clean bucket, being careful not to stir up the gravel or waste that’s accumulated at the bottom of the bowl. Remove the fish with a net and place it, along with all bowl decorations, into the bucket. Use a clean paper towel to scrub the inside of the bowl and rinse it well with tap water (do not use soap), then clean all decorations, remove dead or rotting plant leaves and rinse the gravel in the bowl with tap water. Once the bowl is clean, pour the old water with your fish in it from the bucket into the bowl and top it off with pretreated tap water or bottled drinking water that’s been left out to reach the right temperature. Let’s see How to clean a betta fish tank in 12 steps Betta Feeding Basics Despite the popular misconception that they like to nibble aquatic plant roots, wild betta fish are insectivores and don’t eat plants. Your pet betta fish should be fed pellet fish food made specifically for bettas, about two to six pellets per day. Bettas also enjoy eating freeze-dried brine shrimp, bloodworms and black worms, but these treats should be limited to just once per week. More fish die from overfeeding than from starvation and bettas are no exception. As a rule of thumb, feed your betta only as much as it will eat in two minutes. For insects and worms, you have the option of feeding them to your fish live or dead, but if you feed them live worms you’ll need to rinse them off first. If you use gravel in your betta’s fish bowl, steer clear of feeding your fish live food as it can hide in the gravel. Finding the Right Tank Mates for Your Betta Siamese fighting fish have the nickname of Siamese or Japanese fighting fish because they’re extremely aggressive and tend not to do well together. Never put two male bettas in the same tank together or you run a very high risk of one killing the other. In larger tanks, it’s possible to keep more than one female betta together, but even female bettas have been known to attack each other. Goldfish generally cannot live with betta fish several reasons. Betta fish are tropical fish and need water of at least 76 degrees Fahrenheit, while goldfish prefer cooler waters and can even live in icy water. Additionally, bettas are insectivores while goldfish are omnivores, and goldfish tend to be bad fin-nippers, which won’t go over well with the betta, which will bite back at a nippy fish. Bettas also do not do well with bigger or more colorful fish, as they’ll become intimidated and aggressive. Here’s a list of fish and other aquatic creatures that do make good tank mates for bettas: Catfish: including bristlenose plecos, cory catfish (corydoras), Pygmy corydoras and glass catfish. Glass catfish do best in small groups, while bristlenose plecos can grow to be large and may require a tank upgrade at some point. Neon and Ember tetras: small schools of tetras can do well with bettas, but can also be fin-nippers and should be watched. Blue gouramis: have similar care requirements and tank conditions to the betta, but require tanks around 20-gallons in size. Khulii Loaches Ghost shrimp: be sure to choose large ones or select between eight and ten to put in with your betta so they don’t get eaten. African dwarf frogs: some of the best tank mates for bettas, just make sure the betta doesn’t eat all the frog’s food. Guppies: can make good tank mates, but there may be a few territorial fights until dominance is established. Try to pick common guppies instead of the fancy colorful ones. Competing colors induce more fighting. Take care Betta fish summary Betta fish are beautiful fish that are easy to raise, but they require proper care to be healthy and live long. They should be raised in a 2.5–5 gallon aquarium with a heater that controls the temperature between 24–30 degrees Celsius. The water should be filtered or conditioned to a pH of around 6.5–7.5. Feed pellets twice a day and can be supplemented with fresh food such as bloodworms or shrimp. Some of the water should be changed weekly to maintain cleanliness. Decorate the aquarium with plants or toys without sharp edges to give the fish a place to hide and reduce stress. Male Betta fish are aggressive. They should be kept alone or selected as non-aggressive fish in the tank. Watch for abnormal symptoms such as lethargy, missing fins, or white spots for timely treatment. If well cared for, Betta fish can live up to 3–5 years.

Nice Betta Thailand.CO.,LTD
Betta fish with molly fish can be live together? Many friends and customers of Betta fish often ask Nice Betta Thailand whether Betta fish with Molly fish can live together or not. This is a question that many people who love to create a Community aquarium tank ask. Let’s see what are the advantages and disadvantages. Before raising betta fish and molly fish together, you should know the characteristics of both types of fish. Betta fish behavior: Aggressive, especially males Territorial, doesn’t like other fish to come near Solitary, likes to be alone Showing off, spreads fins when encountering competitors Smart, remembers owner Molly Fish Temperament: Gentle, not fierce, gets along well with other fish, likes to be in groups, is a school of fish, moves quickly and swims all the time, easy to raise, can tolerate various environments, gives birth to live young, reproduces quickly. Betta fish with molly fish can live together? Betta fish and Molly fish can be raised together in some cases only, depending on the nature of the Betta fish and the environment of the aquarium (but for the most part, they can get along well). However, there are also details as follows: Cases betta fish with molly fish they can be raised together Non-aggressive Bettas (some are calmer than others) A large enough tank for each fish to have its own space Have aquatic plants or decorations for the fish to hide and mark off their territory Mollys are usually non-aggressive and swim fast enough to escape if chased Most of the time, betta fish with molly fish can live together well. Although sometimes the Molly fish will disturb the Betta fish, don’t worry. The Betta fish, because they are possessive of their territory, will chase the Molly fish away. The Molly fish swims fast and is not easily harmed. Also, raising them together like this keeps the Betta fish from feeling lonely. And having a molly fish in the tank as a friend for the betta fish can also make the betta fish’s color darker and the fish more healthy when he exercise puffed his fins to intimidate. Cases betta fish with molly fish not be raised together Some species of Bettas are very aggressive or territorial, especially wild Bettas. (Betta Spenders Regans, ) Too small or cramped tank (e.g. under 10 gallons) Mollys with long fins or too brightly colored may cause them to mistake it for another Betta and attack. Tips for raising betta fish with molly fish together Keep both types of fish in two tanks with each other visible for 3-5 days to get used to each other. After 5 days, bring both types of fish to the same tank and continue to observe their behavior closely at first and Use a tank larger than 15-20 gallons or more. Have aquatic plants or decorations to help divide the space. Avoid aggressive (Wild betta fish, Splenders regans) Advantages of raising Betta fish with Molly fish Add Variety of Colors to Your Aquarium Betta fish have brighter colors, longer and stronger fins (from exercising to chase and bite the molly fish, but they will not be able to bite the molly fish in time). Molly also comes in many colors such as white, orange, black, yellow, making the tank look bright and lively. Helps stimulate natural behaviors in the betta Having a non-aggressive tankmate can help the betta be more active and display interesting behaviors such as swimming and flapping its fins. Molly is a peaceful fish. She doesn’t disturb the betta fish, so they can live together peacefully (if the betta fish isn’t too aggressive). Make the most of your tank space Molly swims around the tank, while Betta fish like to stay close to the surface, so they don’t compete for space. Mini-Ecosystem With enough aquatic plants and space, the aquarium becomes a balanced and beautiful mini-ecosystem, and both betta fish with molly fish species are less stressed and live longer. Note: You must select non-aggressive betta fish and not an aggressive species. They should also have hiding places such as aquatic plants or decorations for the safety of the Molly fish. Disadvantages of raising betta fish with molly fish Disadvantages of raising Betta fish with Molly fish that you should know before deciding to raise them and should be prepared if you plan to raise them together. There are always unexpected things that can happen. Betta fish may bite Molly Betta fish (especially wild males betta) are territorial and aggressive and may mistake Molly for a competitor and attack her, injuring or killing her. Very different temperament Betta fish like to be alone, while Molly is a schooling fish, likes to swim around, which can stress the Betta fish when it needs to rest (they should have a hiding place for both types of fish). Betta fish are not very tolerant of change. Molly’s constant movement can make her feel like her territory is being invaded, leading to constant attacks that take time before the violent attacks subside. The environment must be carefully controlled. You must have a large enough tank, aquatic plants, hiding places, and good water quality at all times. Because when there are many fish in the tank, waste tends to accumulate, which can lead to poor water quality, which can cause stress and health problems for the fish. Behavior must be observed in the early stages Especially in the early stages because they may bite or get injured without realizing it. Keeping Betta fish with Molly has risks due to different temperaments and aggressive behaviors of Betta fish. If you want to keep them together, you must choose a Betta fish with a calm temperament and set up a suitable tank. Summary of raising betta fish with molly fish Keeping Betta fish with Molly fish is possible but must be done with caution. Betta fish are territorial and aggressive, especially males. Molly fish are gentle and live in groups. If you want to keep them together, choose non-aggressive Betta fish or wild betta fish. Should be use a large tank with aquatic plants or decorations for them to hide in. You should observe their behavior closely during the initial period. Avoid Molly fish with long fins or bright colors. Set up a water filtration system and the right temperature (24–28°C). The advantage is that it helps the tank to be colorful and lively. The disadvantage is that they are at risk of being bitten if the Betta fish gets angry or stressed. It is suitable for experienced fishers or those who keep them closely.

Nice Betta Thailand.CO.,LTD
Why A New Betta Might Be Lethargic Or Refuse To Eat If you just got a Betta fish, congratulations! They are very pretty, very personable fish that can bring much pleasure to their keepers. But they have some needs that must be met. If you aren’t meeting those needs, there can be problems. A newly acquired fish may need a few days to settle into a new home, but after that, if he’s not eating or seems lethargic, there are things to check. And, before I start, there is one other thing I’d like to point out. When the fish are kept in small containers in stores, the water can get to be very poor in quality. We tend to think the best thing is to hurry the fish into fresh, clean water. That’s what we would want, right? But fish hate sudden changes and if the change is too big, it can shock them badly, even kill them at times. So if you can, test the water they come in, particularly for pH. If there will be a change in pH of one full point or more, either higher or lower, between the water in the cup and the water in the new fish’s tank, then please take at least a day to slowly acclimate the fish to the new water conditions. (One full point of pH is from 5-6, or 8-7, not the smaller points in between.) The way to do that is to take a bit of water out of the container and replace it with a bit of conditioned new water at the same temperature. Do it again; every few hours. When the fish goes into the new tank water a day or so later on, he won’t be shocked and should adjust much more easily to his new home. Things to Check So, the first thing to check for is ammonia or nitrite or nitrate in the water. You should have water testing kits on hand. What tests can tell us cannot be learned in any other way, so they are important. Chances are there’ll be some ammonia in a new tank, especially if you did not cycle the tank before the fish came to live in it. That’s the Nitrogen cycle, if you’re not familiar with the term. You can read about the cycles in many places here on MAC. Look for ‘ fish in cycle’ or ’the Nitrogen cycle’. If you did not cycle, you’ll need to do that, and while you do, you must never allow the ammonia or nitrite to rise over .25 ppm. Not ever. If the levels do rise higher, then you must change enough water to get them back down to .25 or less, as soon as possible. The ammonia and nitrite are much more dangerous to the fish than any large water change will be. The next most common problem is a tank that’s just too small. The fish really shouldn’t live in anything under 3 gallons in size. One gallon is too small and one litre or less isn’t even remotely ok for any fish. A vase is unacceptable unless it holds at least 3 gallons of water. Never mind what the pet shop said about Betta fish living in tiny puddles. That’s another tale entirely! They don’t fare well in tiny containers. Another common reason for lack of appetite or lethargy could be that you are doing too few partial water changes. So, how often are you doing water changes? Have you done a water change at all? If partial water changes are not being done once a week, then that is too few changes. I like to see changes of at least 40% of the tank’s volume every week. Plenty of fresh water is a fish’s best friend, the best friend he can ever have in life. The truth is that Bettas should have at least 5 gallons (20 litres) of water to swim around in. More than that is much better. Fish are much more likely to live long healthy lives if you give them more space to live in, rather than less. Check the temperature of the water. The fish come from Thailand, where it’s very hot all the time. They need their water to be between 78 – 82 F, all the time. If your room is not that warm, all night and all day, then you need to provide a heater. If the fish are chilled they often won’t eat and won’t move much. If the filter is putting out too strong a current, the fish will probably find the quietest spot in the tank and stay there. Their very large fins make it difficult for them to swim in any current. If the filter output is too strong, it needs to be baffled or adjusted, or a different filter used instead. If the fish is being blown around the tank like a sailboat without a rudder, it’s much too strong a current. These are among the most common reasons for the fish to be lethargic or refuse food in their first weeks in a new home. What do I do if my fish is really sick? Whenever your fish appears to be sick the first & best thing to do is a partial water change of 50% of the tank volume. In cases of fin rot, which is distressingly common to see, daily changes or every other day changes are not too much. Always ensure that the new water matches in temperature and has been dechlorinated before you pour it in, very gently. Then check with MAC and we’ll try to help figure out what might be wrong with your fish. Diet for Betta fish Some Bettas will not eat food that does not float. Look at the shape of their mouths. The mouth turns upward – that’s often seen in fish that feed at the surface, on insects and such things. Some of these fish won’t follow food as it sinks below the surface. It’s also normal for them to mouth a pellet and spit it out again. It can be a way of working it down gradually and normally they will work at it until it is eaten. Smaller pellets can help with this – 1 mm size when dry is my preference. And it is best to soak dry food first, in a bit of tank water, so it is well-moistened. It is much easier for the fish to eat moist food. And then overly dry food won’t over-expand in the stomach after it is consumed. Rarely, you run into one that will only eat live foods. That can be frustrating if it happens. Live food can be had, but it may take some effort to get it. Despite their upturned mouth, the fish have no problem chasing live food anywhere in their tank or taking it off the bottom of the tank. Live food is not only good for them nutritionally; it is also a wonderful environmental enrichment. They can indulge their natural hunting instincts, while they get perfectly natural stimulation and exercise, which is all beneficial. Hunting for food is what they would be doing much of the time if they lived wild. Frankly, I prefer to give them as much live, or frozen food as possible and very little dry food. I think it’s safer for them. It is certainly more natural. For the pellets I do use, I strongly prefer that they be no larger than 1 mm in size. Many Betta fish pellets are 2 mm and they all get larger after they absorb water. The smaller pellets seem to be easier to for them to eat. They need not be specifically for Betta fish either. If you tip soaked pellets very gently onto the surface tension of the water, most of them will float long enough for most fish to eat. I’m not especially keen on freeze-dried food for fish, primarily because it is so very dry. If you use it, soak it thoroughly in a bit of tank water. The fish are prone to some digestive disorders so moist foods are safer for them and that’s also why I think live foods are safer for them. As for suitable live foods, there are several choices. Adult brine shrimp can be very good, most especially if they are well fed first. Powdered spirulina can be used to feed brine shrimp you have purchased from a store if they come with empty bellies. They’ll be pink if they are empty – they take on the colour of their food, which can be seen through the stomach walls. They will live for more than an hour in fresh water, more than enough time to be hunted down and eaten. Mosquito larvae are terrific food, as are daphnia. Both of these will survive in the tank until they are eaten. Or until the mosquito pupates, which gives you time to dispose of the pupa before it becomes a mosquito! It’s often possible to collect live daphnia in spring, from streams or lakes. Mosquito larvae can be found almost anywhere in summer, in any bit of still water. You can also easily culture daphnia at home if you don’t mind doing so. They’re interesting little creatures that swim with a unique jerky motion. Another choice would be amphipods ( gammarus), known somewhat scornfully as scuds. They also live until they are eaten. Scuds are crustaceans – they are like minute shrimp. Springtails are another crustacean, a terrestrial one, that makes great food. Wingless fruit flies are also terrific for the fish. There are also variants that have wings but can only hop or glide; not fly. Drosophila melanogaster ( wingless) and tiny, or D. hydei, a larger fly species. Shops that cater to frog and reptile keepers sell flies and may sell springtails. If you cannot provide any live foods, then do try to use some that are frozen. Daphnia or brine shrimp are best and the last choice would be bloodworms. Some places might have live bloodworms, but not very often. Frozen ones are more common. Bloodworms are a bit fatty so they are best given as a weekly treat only. That’s what I prefer to do with any worm, as all worms tend to be fatty. Fry need a lot of fat but adult fish usually don’t. One thing to be aware of is that most frozen foods won’t have a lot of vitamins to offer. Too often, the little critters that are used as feeders will not be full of food when they are frozen and it is their gut contents that provide most of the vitamins. But, you can fix that; fish vitamins! Add a good vitamin supplement to your frozen foods, like Kent Marine’s Zoe. There are others as well if you look for them. You can add vitamins to flakes or pellets too. Zoe may be a bit of an acquired taste for some fish – you can add something like Garlic Guard or Entice to make it taste better. One thing to know is that frozen foods most often come in small cubes. One cube will be too much for one Betta, so you need to chip or chop off a suitably sized portion and put the rest back in the freezer, well wrapped so it will not become freezer burned. Thaw the portion and then feed it to the fish. Remove any leftover food after about ten minutes. If the fish hasn’t eaten it by then, he’s probably not going to and it should not be left to decay. Other Environmental enrichment for Bettas I’d also suggest adding some plants to any Betta’s tank. You can use various items of decor too. The idea is to make the tank as interesting for the fish as you can, with things he can swim through or around. Live plants also contribute quite a bit to water quality, by consuming nitrates for food. Nitrates are not often a problem in tanks with live plants. Live plants work best, I think, as they mimic the native habitat of these fish, but silk or plastic will be fine too. Just be sure there are no sharp, coarse, or rough edges that might damage the Betta’s fins. Check every surface and edge for anything that could snag a fin. Summary Betta Might Be Lethargic Or Refuse To Eat Reasons why a new betta fish may be depressed or not eating, highlighting various factors that may affect the fish’s behavior, such as Post-migration adjustment It may take some time for a betta fish to adjust to its new environment. If there is a rapid change in water conditions, the fish may become stressed and not eat. Water quality Excessive levels of ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate in the water may cause stress and not eat. Tank size Keeping a betta fish in a tank that is too small may cause stress and not eat. Water changes Failure to perform regular water changes can cause poor water quality, leading to a betta fish not eating. The Nice Betta Thailand Breeders recommends that betta owners regularly check the water quality and perform at least a 40% water change per week to maintain a healthy environment for the fish.

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Do Betta Fish Need a Heater and Filter in Their Tank Siamese fighting fish are often housed in bowls. That means no filter, and no heater. Even people who keep Betta fish in small tanks rarely provide filtration or heated water, and they survive for the most part. Really, this is what makes the Betta so popular. For beginning fish keepers, kids, college students and others who don’t feel like dealing with the maintenance requirements of a real aquarium, the Betta is a way to have a pet fish without all the hassles of having a pet fish. Unfortunately, these same Betta owners later end up wondering why their fish appears perpetually stressed, or suffers from some malady such as fin rot. Betta may survive in bowls of stagnant water, but that doesn’t mean they are thriving. Cold temperatures and dirty water can cause stress for your Betta and make him more likely to get sick and die before his time. But this doesn’t mean you can’t keep your Betta in an unfiltered, unheated tank. It just means you need to fully understand the requirements of your Betta fish before deciding if that is the correct decision. It also means you need to be ready to do the extra work required to keep an unheated, unfiltered setup in top condition for your fish. In this article we’ll take a look at whether or not you should consider housing your Betta in a tank with a heater and filter. If you are new to Betta keeping, you might want to first check out my article on proper Betta care: How Is the Betta Different From Other Fish? What makes us think it’s okay to keep a Betta in a bowl, anyway? We’d never consider putting any other tropical fish in a tiny bowl without a filter. Betta fish do have physiologies that allow them to survive in low-oxygen environments in the wild. They are anabantids, or labyrinth fish, and they can come to the surface to take a gulp of air when they need it. By the way, this is just one more reason keeping a Betta in a plant vase is a really stupid idea. Your Betta fish needs access to the water surface! In the wilds of Southeast Asia Bettas can live for short periods in small puddles where other fish would perish. This is because of evolutionary adaptations that allow the species to persevere in times of drought or poor water conditions. In other words, they have evolved to take in air, not just rely on the oxygen in the water, so they can survive harsh conditions. This makes them the perfect fish to house in a small bowl, or so it seems. They can do without the aeration effect of a filter, and survive even if the water gets dirty. But think of it like this: You could probably go a month without food if you had to, living on the stored fat in your body. As humans, we have evolved to survive periods of famine by storing fat. But how much fun would you be having during that month without food? You’d probably be pretty miserable, and you might even suffer from some physical problems as a result of your fast. Just because you are surviving doesn’t mean you are thriving. Does a Betta Need a Filter? You can keep a Betta in a bowl, though I personally really hate seeing it. You need to really stay on top of weekly water changes, be sure not to overfeed, and keep the water crystal clear. You also need to make sure your room temperature remains appropriate for tropical fish, which means in the mid-70s. When things go bad in a small bowl, they go bad really fast. Poor water conditions can lead to fin deterioration, infections and, ultimately, premature death for your Betta. This is why, if you are on the fence between a tank or a bowl, I strongly encourage you to choose the tank. To thrive, Betta need clean water just like any other fish. Fish tanks with filtration are able to establish themselves as tiny ecosystems, although they’re ecosystems that need a little help from you. Colonies of microorganisms develop in the tank and in the filter, and they assist in breaking down the waste caused by the fish and his uneaten food. You don’t need to, and shouldn’t, do a complete water change in a tank with a filter as you’ll destroy those helpful microorganisms. About 30% weekly water change is enough, plus vacuuming the gravel and cleaning up any algae. This equates to about ten minutes of work per week for a 10-gallon tank. Compare that to the hassle and time involved with removing your Betta from his bowl or tank, completely cleaning it and the decorations, then adding clean water and waiting for it to return to room temperature before you can put Betta back in his home. Tanks with filtration are simply easier to care for. And the larger the tank, the easier it is to maintain the system. A 55-gallon tank is much, much easier to maintain than a 1-gallon tank. That’s not to say your Betta needs a 55-gallon tank of course, but a 5-10 gallon tank isn’t a bad idea. The actions of a filter also help to oxygenate the water. Betta do best with low-flow filtration, as they tend to get knocked around a lot by high-output filters. Even a low-flow filter will help with oxygenation. Below are a couple of filters to consider for your Betta. No matter what you choose, keep an eye on your fish at first and make sure he is coping with the water movement without any problems. Does a Betta Need a Heater? When people keep Betta fish in bowls or small tanks they usually don’t consider a heater. This means the water temperature will be governed by the surrounding air temperature. This can be bad news. Though people don’t often think of them this way, Betta are tropical fish. That means they live in warmer water in the wild. They require temperatures from the mid-70s, up to around 80 degrees. If your room temperature is consistently in the mid-70s at the lowest, you can get by without a heater. This is true of any tropical fish tank. But if you have periods, at night for instance, when room temperature drops into the 60s or even 50s, you need to consider a heater for your Betta’s tank. Just like pollution, water temperature is easier to control in larger volumes of water. The water temperature in a 1-3 gallon tank or bowl will drop fast as the air temperature goes down. A 10-gallon tank will take a little longer to adjust, and big tanks even longer still. Low water temperatures will cause stress for your Betta, and make him more at risk of disease and premature death. Remember, just because he’s surviving doesn’t mean he’s thriving. You need to keep your Betta’s water temperature between 75-80 degrees if you want him to be as healthy as possible. One of the problems with very small tanks is that even very small heaters may heat them up too much, and you could end up killing your Betta. This is all the more reason you should consider a tank 5 gallons or bigger for your Betta fish. You need to monitor the water temperature and make adjustments to the heater size and/or settings as you go. Ideally, you should set up the tank, heater included, before you ever add your Betta to make sure the temperature is staying within desirable ranges. Taking Care of Your Betta Fish Although I’d really like to see you choose a larger tank with filtration and a heater for your Betta, you can keep him in a bowl if you stay on top of weekly water changes and make sure the water temperature is appropriate for his needs. Missing a water change, or two, or three, will soon mean doom for your pet fish. If you are too busy to perform the weekly maintenance on a smaller vessel, consider keeping your Betta in a 5 or 10-gallon tank with a heater and filtration. It’s less work for you, and a better environment for him. Betta fish are truly the most abused aquarium fish in the world, by both their well-meaning but uneducated owners and by an industry that pushes them out by the millions as disposable pets. It’s unfortunate, but countless Bettas are purchased every day by people who have no clue about their needs. It’s all about education. The first part is understanding how to care for your Betta fish correctly. The second part is telling someone else, so more of these fish can thrive instead of just survive. Please consider keeping your Betta fish in at least a 5-gallon tank with the proper filtration and heater. Summary betta fish need Heater: Betta fish are warm water fish that require a temperature of around 24–28°C (75–82°F) for good health and proper digestion. Water Filter: This helps maintain water quality by removing waste and toxins that build up in the water, which is important for disease prevention and the growth of beneficial bacteria. Aquarium Size: A tank of at least 5 gallons (19 liters) should be selected to provide enough space for the Betta fish and its equipment. Maintenance: The tank should be cleaned regularly and the water changed regularly to maintain a good environment for the Betta fish. Using heaters and filters not only helps the betta fish live a long and healthy life, but also allows the owner to enjoy raising the betta fish happily and confidently.

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How to clean a betta fish tank in 12 steps

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Female betta fish sorority tanks Looking for make betta fish sorority tanks ? Actually you can keep more than one betta in your aquarium – but let’s explain! Most people know or have heard that male bettas just can’t get along. This is true – you cannot keep multiple male betta fish in one aquarium. They are handsome but hot tempered. However, this does not have to be the case with female bettas. With the proper aquarium set-up and fish introduction technique you can keep more than one female betta fish in an aquarium. Aquariums with multiple betta fish are called “female betta fish sorority tanks”. Things to know before setting up a betta fish sorority tank Before setting up a sorority aquarium you must understand the nature of female bettas. We all know male bettas will, let’s say, “get bitey” if more than one are placed in the same aquarium. Female bettas are much more social but they aren’t completely docile. Female bettas are also territorial and will get into mild “quarrels” as they figure out the personality hierarchy. The betta sorority should be a minimum of 4-5 females but no more than ten if the aquarium is large enough. Setting up a female betta sorority tank isn’t difficult but there are certain steps that must be followed to have success. Setting up your betta sorority aquarium Opinions differ on the minimum size tank for a female betta sorority aquarium. Some aquarists report the best success with tanks at least twenty gallons in size. The fact is this, the smaller the tank, the more likely the female bettas will fight. Experienced betta-keepers recommend an aquarium size of 20 – 30 gallons. However a 10-gallon sorority can be successful – but you may have to remove a bully female if she won’t settle down and become sociable. When aquascaping the aquarium (adding the plants and decorations) you should consider plenty of cover and hiding places for the fish. Each betta will select its own territory so adding plants, caves, pots or driftwood will help block the vision between fish – keeping tempers cool. An aquarium heater and filter is a must. Once you know that the minimum tank size is 10 gallon (with 20-30 gallon being advised) you can follow our aquarium set up guide for further details. Keep the temperature between 76-80 F. Clean water is a must – water conditions must be optimal. Choose a filter with a gentle flow. This is preferred by the bettas due to their delicate fins. Adding female bettas to the sorority aquarium When selecting your “sorority girls” try to choose fish that are similar in size and age. This will help the fish feel more equal, reduce the tendency to fight and provide for long-term stability of the sorority. Some betta experts even recommend buying all of the females from the same spawn to increase chances they will get along. This can be difficult unless if you have a local betta breeder. All of the fish should be added at the same time. This allows the fish community to establish an order. If new female bettas are added later, the pecking order has to start over again and can result in fighting and damaged fins. Don’t worry too much about small scuffles during the first couple of weeks. The female bettas will test each other out. There will be nipping and chasing but this is essential for the sorority to establish territories and a hierarchy. Make betta fish sororities We have a detailed blog on feeding betta fish which can be followed for sororities. Betta fish are carnivores, so their diet should be high in protein. Betta specific pellets or flakes alongside frozen brine shrimp and even live brine shrimp and blood worms for treats. Often the new sorority may not want to eat a lot at first as they will be stressed from adjusting to the new aquarium habitat. It is important not to overfeed your fish. Betta’s stomachs around the size of their eyes, if they eat too much it will bloat which causes many issues. Plus, any uneaten food will dirty the water. A new aquarium has to develop a biological filter capable of handling the fish’s waste. Test the water every week for ammonia and nitrite. Both should rise and fall over the next couple of weeks. Once ammonia and nitrite levels are zero, the aquarium is biologically safe. Over-feeding simply boosts the level of ammonia, which increases nitrite and stresses the fish. Making a weekly water change of 10-20% of the water will help keep the water quality high and remove dissolved organics and algae-promoting phosphate and nitrate. Betta fish sorority tank summary Female fighting fish can be kept together in a large tank of about 20-30 gallons, with 4-10 fish at a time, to establish a social hierarchy. Aquatic plants and hiding places are required to reduce conflict, the temperature should be set at 24-27°C, and the water should be filtered with gentle flow. Choose fish of similar size from the same source to reduce fighting. High protein food, avoid overfeeding. If any fish are too aggressive, they should be separated. This type of breeding requires close monitoring and a good tank preparation to prevent stress and injury. It is not easy, but it can be done with good planning and proper care. With patience and proper care you can have a beautiful collection of female bettas-all in one aquarium!

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How long betta fish can stay without food

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Water quality for betta fish health

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Total Alkalinity vs. pH, and their role in water chemistry

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Signs of Betta Fish Illness Do you know how to spot when your betta fish illness? Learning to watch for signs that your pet is sick will help you get him the treatment he needs that much sooner. Signs of a Sick Betta fish illness Most bettas will display one or more of the following signs when they feel ill. Use them to take stock of your pet’s health. Lethargy – Bettas can be very active fish, but they do stop and take time to rest and even sleep. Due to this fact, it may not be immediately apparent to you that your betta fish is less active than usual until some time has passed. You may notice that your fish lists aimlessly at the top of the tank with his mouth at the water’s surface. On the other hand, he may settle into a secluded spot at the bottom of his tank and show no interest in anything going on around him. Bettas are curious and territorial creatures, so if your pet stops investigating his surroundings for any significant amount of time, he may be ill. Loss of appetite – Bettas have very healthy appetites, so one of the first indicators of an illness is usually when a fish shows no interest in his food. This is why it’s so important to watch your fish when you feed him and make sure he eats. If he refuses his food for more than one meal, you’ll want to examine him a little closer to see if you notice any other signs of potential illness. Looks skinny – Some siamese fighting fish begin to look like they are wasting away even if they haven’t gone off their food. This could be a sign that your pet’s current diet is lacking in important nutrients. Most hobbyists recommend offering bettas a varied diet that includes betta pellets, fresh or frozen brine shrimp and freeze-dried bloodworms. Difficulty swimming – Some diseases interfere with a betta’s ability to swim normally. If your fish struggles to swim up or down, or he keeps turning on his side or upside down, it could be a sign that his swim bladder is either infected or injured. Spots or film – Parasitic and fungal diseases typically leave some sort of evidence on the fish. If you notice any odd material that looks like cotton clinging to your betta, he likely has one of these infections Fin clamping or deterioration – Bettas tend to clamp their fins when they don’t feel well. Beyond that, fins that begin to look frayed or as if they are being eaten away may be sign of a fin rot infection. Looks bloated – If your betta splendens body suddenly looks puffed up, it could be a sign of constipation, but it could also be sign of a condition called dropsy which can be life threatening. With dropsy, the entire fish swells up, and the scales stand out a bit from the body. What to Do When You Suspect Your Betta Is illness Once you’ve noted any specific signs of illness your betta shows, it’s time to try to determine which disease or condition is making him sick. You can compare his symptoms to a variety of the most common betta diseases, but if you’re still not sure what’s wrong, give your local aquarium shop or vet clinic a call and describe what you see. Someone on the staff may be able to hazard an educated guess about what your fish has and recommend a specific treatment that can help. Remember, the time you spend observing your betta means you know him better than anyone. If your gut tells you something isn’t quite right, it’s probably true. Trust your instincts, try to note as many symptoms as you can, and get your fish the treatment he needs as quickly as you can.

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Brine shrimp good or bad Yes indeed, as long as you enrich the adult brine shrimp food for betta fish, disinfect it in freshwater before you offer it to your ponies, and your seahorses will eat it, it’s all right to supplement your seahorse’s diet liberally with the Artemia, as discussed below BRINE SHRIMP (Artemia spp.) Pros (Giwojna, Oct. 1996): Adult Artemia are readily available from your fish store or through the mail. Easily raised from cysts to provide nauplii of all sizes and stages of development. Excellent tolerance for saltwater: feed and forget–survives until eaten. Easy to gut-load and enrich. Accepted greedily by most seahorses (except Hippocampus reidi and H. ingens). Cons (Giwojna, Oct. 1996): Poor food value–good source of protein, but lacking in other essential nutrients. Must be fortified or enriched to increase nutritional content. Cannot be used as staple diet. Culture Instructions: Specific gravity: 1.020-1.026; pH: 8.0-9.0; Temperature: 77 degrees F (25 degrees C) An easy way to raise small quantities of brine shrimp is to set up a 10-20 gallon tank in a location where it receives natural sunlight to promote the growth of green algae, and provide gentle aeration using a length of airline tubing as a bubbler (avoid fine bubbles and the use of airstones; Giwojna, Oct. 1996). Sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon of eggs on the surface of the water. The nauplii will hatch 24-36 hour later, and the day after they emerge, they can be fed sparingly with various additives and enrichment products (Giwojna, Oct. 1996). Adjust the amount so a slight haze barely clouds the water for a few hours each day. Do not feed again until the water is crystal clear, and avoid overfeeding at all costs. Maintain constant aeration to keep the food in suspension, and feed very small amounts fairly often — never a large quantity at any given time (Giwojna, Oct. 1996). The first generation of brine shrimp will reach maturity after 2-3 weeks, and the culture will then be self-sustaining (Daleco Aquarists Supply Manual, 1995). Add more eggs as needed to supplement natural reproduction and bolster the population of brine shrimp. Top off the tank with freshwater regularly to make up for evaporation, and replace about 25% of the culture water on a monthly basis (Giwojna, Oct. 1996). It’s a good idea to set up 2 or more culture tanks for adult Artemia at the same time so you can harvest a little from each culture and prevent the population of shrimp in any one tank from being depleted to the extent it can no longer sustain itself. Rearing Artemia this way makes it easy to select nauplii at just the proper stage of development and size for your sea horses (Giwojna, Oct. 1996). Comments Brine shrimp are no doubt the most widely used live foods for sea horses. They are convenient, always available, easy to hatch and raise, and adults can be bought by the pint or quart at many fish stores (Giwojna, Oct. 1996). However, commercially raised brine shrimp have one big drawback. By the time they are purchased and released in the aquarium, they usually have not eaten for several days, and starved brine shrimp are nutritionally barren. It is therefore imperative that brine shrimp be fortified before they are fed to your sea horses. (As discussed earlier, unfortified adult brine shrimp are useful for feeding to captive-bred seahorses on a staple diet of enriched frozen Mysis on their fasting days precisely because the brine shrimp have nonexistent nutritional value.) Fortunately, brine shrimp are filter feeders and will take in whatever is suspended in the water with them that has a manageable particle size. This can be yeast cells; unicellular algae; rotifers; micronized rice bran, whey, wheat flour, or egg yolk; dried Spirulina algae; water-soluble vitamin and mineral formulations designed for marine fish; or whatever else the aquarist cares to add to their culture water (Daleco Aquarists Supply Manual, 1995). I recommend using one of the concentrated food additives or enrichment products that have recently been developed specifically for mariculturists. The best additives are rich in lipids, especially highly unsaturated fatty acids (HUFA), and vitamins such as stabilized Vitamin C and cyanocobalmin (B-12) (Giwojna, Oct. 1996). Adding such enrichment products to a 6-ounce portion of brine shrimp, and then allowing at least 12 hours for the shrimp to ingest it can fortify store-bought adult Artemia (Giwojna, Oct. 1996) Liquid vitamin formulations can also be added, and the ability to enrich their lipid and vitamin content this way allows us to treat brine shrimp as animated vitamin pills for seahorses (Lawrence, 1998). The savvy seahorse keeper should regard enriched Artemia as bio-encapsulated food for his charges and take full advantage of every opportunity to fortify the shrimp (Lawrence, 1998). The survival rate of marine fish fry improves dramatically when they are fed lipid-enriched brine shrimp nauplii, and the importance of fortifying Artemia in this manner cannot be overemphasized (Forrest Young, pers. com.). In fact, the Steinhart Aquarium in San Francisco has successfully raised Hippocampus erectus from birth to maturity on a diet consisting solely of brine shrimp (Herald and Rakowicz, 1951). For best results, however, brine shrimp should be considered only a dietary supplement, with of the bulk of your sea horses’ diet consisting of hard-bodied crustaceans such as Mysids, feeder shrimp or Gammarids. However, Sandy, if you’ll be supplementing your seahorse’s diet with adult brine shrimp regularly, there are a few precautions you must be careful to observe. First and foremost, you must be careful to disinfect live food beforehand to assure you won’t be introducing any pathogens or parasites along with the prey items, as discussed below. There is one potentially serious drawback to feeding your seahorses living prey on a regular basis. There is always the chance that you can introduce disease into your aquarium along the with the live food. Live Artemia (brine shrimp), for example, are known disease vectors for a long laundry list of fish pathogens, and should be treated with caution in that regard – especially if obtained from your local fish store (LFS). The aquarist who relies on live foods for his seahorses MUST take special precautions to eliminate this potential danger! Good or bad for betta fish? Fortunately, there are a couple of simple measures that can minimize such risks. Decapsulating Artemia cysts, for instance, removes all known parasites and pathogens, effectively sterilizing brine shrimp eggs. Large public aquaria routinely go a step further, disinfecting live foods by administering a 10-minute freshwater bath and then rinsing it thoroughly through a 100-micron strainer before offering it to their seahorses (Bull and Mitchell 2002). Home hobbyists should do the same (a brine shrimp net will suffice for the strainer). Brine shrimp — the chief offender as a disease vector — tolerate this disinfection process extremely well. In addition, adult brine shrimp (Artemia sp.) are now available from High-Health facilities, which greatly minimizes the risk of disease contamination, and if possible, Sandy, you should take full advantage of these safe vendors when purchasing live foods. Secondly, you must be aware that unfed adult brine shrimp are virtually nutritionally barren, and it is therefore vital that they be enriched improperly before you offer them to your seahorses. It is a great idea to enrich the brine shrimp with Vibrance, but make sure you use the lipid-rich Vibrance I rather than the low-fat formula (Vibrance II) for the Artemia. Adult brine shrimp are a good source of protein, but they have very little fat content. The lipid-rich formulation in Vibrance 1 (the original Vibrance) is thus ideal for enriching brine shrimp, transforming them from nutritionally barren, empty calories into a high-fat powerhouse of vitamins and nutrients that’s loaded with color-enhancing carotenoids. As an added benefit, enriching brine shrimp with Vibrance is also an excellent way to get your seahorses to ingest beta-glucan, which will boost their immune systems and help keep them healthy. As a matter of fact, Sandy, unenriched adult brine shrimp have such poor nutritional value that I now use it as an alternative to fasting days. Fasting day always used to make me feel like a heartless heel, as I described in my new book on seahorses: ”The only thing I don’t like about this extremely nutritious diet is the obligatory fast day. The problem with fasting is that my Mustangs don’t seem to realize it’s good for them — that it’s absolutely in their own best interests, essential for their long-term health. Whenever I make an appearance on fast day, they insist on parading back and forth in front of the glass in their greeting colors, begging for a handout. Before my butt hits the upholstery, both of them will be dancing at the feeding station, impatiently awaiting their gourmet shrimp dinner. When it doesn’t materialize, they forlornly abandon their post at the lunch counter, and come up to stare at me through the front glass. When I still don’t take the hint, the female paces back and forth at the front, looking her brightest and most conspicuous, as though trying to attract my attention, while the male reverts to his drab everyday attire and dejectedly resumes his futile vigil at the feeding station. If not for their well-rounded cross-sections, one would think they were dying of hunger, making it difficult to resist their puppy-dog antics. Just sitting there ignoring them makes me feel like a first-class heel. Sheesh–talk about your guilt trips…Dang! I hate fast days.” (Giwojna, Jun. 2002) Lately, however, I have found a way out of that dilemma. It’s a fun alternative to fast days that I feel is far easier on the hobbyist and his pampered pets alike. Nowadays, rather than fasting my seahorses, I offer them a meal with a nutritional value that’s virtually nil instead: unenriched, unfed adult brine shrimp. As you can imagine, brine shrimp in this condition have very little fat content and should be considered nutritionally barren for all intents and purposes. So once a week, instead of depriving my seahorses, I now serve them up a generous portion of unenriched adult brine shrimp. They get the thrill of hunting and eating live food and I get the fun of watching them chase after it. Instead of going hungry, my seahorses get to fill up on empty calories, while I get to avoid a guilty conscience. It’s a win-win situation. Everybody’s happy.

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Teach Your Betta Tricks Did you know you can teach your betta. Betta fish are undoubtedly some of the neatest aquarium fish. They are bright, active, colorful, and packed full of personality. One of the really cool things about betta fish is that they can learn tricks. Now, teaching a betta fish tricks is not all that easy, but it is definitely doable with time and patience. Keep in mind that while these little guys are willing and able, they are just fish, so you really do need to exhibit some serious patience when trying to teach your betta fish tricks. Let’s go through some step by step instructions in terms of how to teach your betta fish tricks. How To Teach Your Betta Fish Tricks Teaching your betta fish tricks may sound like a really difficult task to accomplish, which in all fairness, it’s not the easiest thing to get done. However, it is doable. So, let’s go through a step by step process of how you can teach your betta fish tricks. Step By Step Preperations We are going to start with some preparations before you can get started with actual tricks. Familiarity The first thing that you need to do before you can start teaching your betta fish tricks is to get familiar with it and let it get to know you. Betta fish don’t have the best sight, plus they need to get to know you just as a dog or cat does. It is going to help a lot if you spend a good deal of time up close to the aquarium so that your betta fish gets to know your face. They may just be fish, but they will learn to remember you as time goes one. If you do this enough, when your betta fish sees you, it should swim towards you. This is how you know that your betta fish is ready for you to start teaching it some tricks. Healthy & Happy Another thing that you should do before you start teaching your betta fish tricks is to make sure that it is healthy and happy. If you have a sick or unhappy betta fish, it will surely not do any tricks for you (we have covered illness diagnosis/treatment in detail on this article). Part of this is making sure that you have done a great job at recreating the natural habitat of your betta fish, that it has clean and clear water, and that it is well fed. If your betta fish does not have bright coloring, if it has damaged fins, or if it is sluggish and not behaving normally, you need to solve any and all of these problems before you get started with tricks. If there are lots of bubbles on the water’s surface, it’s a good indication that your betta fish is in good condition and ready for some tricks. Learn more : How to tell if your betta fish is happy Food Treats Something else that you will need if you have any hopes of training your betta fish to do any tricks is some treats. This is very similar to training a dog. Food always makes things easier and much more fun too. You should get some live or freeze dried bloodworms, tubifex worms, mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, or daphnia. These tasty treats will go a long way in motivating your betta fish to do tricks. Keep in mind not to give your betta fish too many treats because overfeeding is a problem that can occur pretty quickly if you are not careful. Also, make sure to thaw any food that is frozen before you try feeding it to your betta fish. Learn more : Which best food for betta fish Wash Your Hands! Finally, in terms of preparation, make sure to wash your hands with hot water before you go near your betta fish. Don’t use soap though because soap residue can be toxic and even lethal to these little guys. Now, Onto Teaching Your Betta Tricks Now that we are adequately prepared to train our betta fish to do tricks, we can begin the actual training. Let’s go through a simple step by step process for teaching your betta fish some simple tricks. Attention You need to get your betta fish’s attention. You can do this by lightly tapping on the glass a couple of times. Make sure not to hit the glass too hard or too much as this will probably scare your betta fish more than anything else. If you are having trouble getting its attention, try using one of those treats we talked about before. Following Your Fingers The first thing that you need to do when it comes to training is to get the betta fish to follow your fingers. Simply drag your finger across the outside of the glass and see if your betta fish follows it. If your betta fish follows your finger, give it a treat as soon as possible. This will reinforce the action of following your finger. If the siamese fighting fish or betta does not follow your finger, wag it around a little bit to get its attention. Keep this up for several days. Drag your finger up and down, left and right, and in different patterns. Every time the betta fish follows your finger, give it a treat to positively reinforce this action. Keep this up for about 5 minutes per day for several days. You can only start teaching your betta fish tricks once it consistently and steadily follows your finger around. Flaring The next thing you can try teaching your betta fish is to flare. Flaring is when a betta fish expands its fins and tail, as well as opening its gills as much as possible. This is something a betta fish does when it sees another male and it is a sign of aggression and territoriality, or in other words, it tells the other male betta fish to back off. This is a good trick, not only because it looks cool, but also because it makes for good exercise as well as a decent cure for boredom. The easiest way to do this is get a small mirror and hold it in front of your betta fish. Place the mirror in front of your betta fish and when it flares, place a pen next to the mirror. Always use the same pen so your betta fish can recognize it and make sure to remove the mirror shortly after the betta flares with the pen present. Keep repeating this several times per day for several days. Every time the betta flares, reward it with a treat. Eventually you will get to the point of being able to show the betta fish only the pen and it will still flare. Teach your betta Jumping Jumping is something that comes naturally to betta splendens, so teaching your little betta to jump should not be too challenging. Get yourself a feeding stick and place a treat on it. Start off by holding the treat close to the betta underwater. Wait until the betta comes to you and eats the treat. Keep repeating this while always moving the treat closer to the surface of the water. Then, take another treat and hold it just above the water’s surface. This will make your betta fish come out of the water slightly for the treat. Then, you need to hold the stick and the treat above the water, a little further up, but close enough to be within jumping distance of your betta. Eventually your betta fish can even learn to jump out of the water and grab food right from your hands. Swimming Through A Loop This final trick that you can teach your betta fish is that of swimming through a loop. Just get a pipe cleaner and bend it into a loop with a handle so you can hold it. This is one of the more difficult tricks to master, but with time and patience, plus some treats, it is definitely possible. Since your betta fish follows your finger now, place the hoop at the side of the tank and move your finger to get the betta to move through the hoop. The betta may be a little weary of this hoop, but with repetition and treats it should be doable. When the betta swims through the hoop, give it a treat. Now, keep making the loop smaller and move it steadily towards the center of the tank. Keep repeating this until your betta fish will swim through the hoop without treats and without the use of your fingers. Conclusion As you can see, teaching your betta fish tricks does take some time, effort, patience, and a lot of treats. That being said, if you have some spare time and really want your betta fish to perform tricks on command, you can definitely do it. Just keep repeating the above steps until your betta does the tricks consistently. Take your time!

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How do betta fish lay eggs? Let’s see how do betta fish lay eggs. Have you ever observed clusters of bubbles on your water’s surface in your betta fish tank? These are called bubble nests and they are a completely natural behavior of a betta fish. Betta fish lay eggs It’s all linked to their breeding process. In the wild, male bettas forms clusters of small bubbles on the water surface, or underneath floating debris and leaves to build their nests. The male betta will guard its nest and will wait for (or find) a female betta to spawn with. Soon after spawning the female betta fish releases eggs. It is the male betta fish’s job to swiftly capture the eggs in its mouth and place the eggs securely into the bubble nest. Now you may wonder why are the eggs kept in a bubble nest? In the wild, betta fish habitats are usually dirty, shallow, puddles without much oxygen. Securing eggs inside bubbles means that they are kept moist and are surrounded by oxygen-rich air – and this is why betta fish build bubble nests. Aside from releasing the eggs, the female betta fish do not play any role in raising or protecting the young. It is the male’s job to fight off any potential threats and to guard the nest (and especially the eggs). If any eggs fall from the nest they pick them up and secure them back into place. The eggs will hatch after a few days, but the fry continue to stay under the bubble nest’s protection until they can survive on their own. Now, how often do betta fish build nests? Well you have learned the reason betta fish build bubble nest is because it forms part of the breeding process. However bubble nest building comes instinctively to the male betta fish even without the presence of a female. Almost all males will a blow bubble nest from time to time, with no other reason than it having a natural urge to do so. If you do see a nest in the tank it is a very good sign that your betta fish is happy and healthy. However there isn’t a ‘normal’ time frame or a ‘normal’ size for bubble nest building. Each individual betta fish has a different pattern. Sometimes a betta fish will build bubble nests weekly or monthly (or daily) and sometimes these nests will be nothing but a few bubbles whereas other times they may be up to an inch thick and span a full corner. Don’t worry too much if your fish doesn’t build bubble nests, it doesn’t have to mean that it is unhappy or unhealthy. There are many factors at hand, health, water parameters, age and the individual fish at hand. Betta Tip: A reason your betta fish may not blow a bubble nest is that the filter of your tank is causing too strong a current at the top of the tank Tips on how to encourage bubble nest building: A few factors that will create the best environment to promote your betta fish to build a bubble nest: Ensure your filter is set to a gentle flow – especially if it causes a current at the water’s surface A very warm temperature – ensure your tank is heated to 78-82 degrees Fahrenheit Clean water – betta fish in need of a water change will often lose interest in building bubble nests The presence of a female (or a strange male) betta fish will also increase the urge for a betta to build a nest In the end, bubble nests are interesting to observe, a good sign of health and happiness but not necessary unless you are breeding betta fish. Let me know if you have any more questions.

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What is the labyrinth organ? Siamese fighting fish labyrinth organ (Betta splendens) are some of the world’s most popular aquarium pets. Their shape and long fins are easily recognized by many people. What most people don’t know is that they breathe air just like you and I. Betta fish are members of the family Osphronemidae. All of these fish are have to breathe air or else they will drown. These fish, which also include the popular gourami, breathe air with the use of their labyrinth organ (this has gained them the nickname labyrinth fishes). Today I will give you a little more insight into how this organ works and why it is so important that betta fish and gourami have access to the air. There are over 370 species of fish that have the ability to breathe air. These fish fall into two categories: facultative and obligate. Facultative air breathers only use their ability when the oxygen in the water runs low. Obligate air breathers have to breathe air because their gills can’t take enough oxygen from the water. Betta and gourami fall into this category. labyrinth organ betta fish As I said earlier, gourami and betta take oxygen from the air with the use of their labyrinth organ. This organ is an extension of the gill plates (bone that anchors the gills) and is made of many folds of bone. Very small blood vessels run over these folds and take the oxygen from the air in a very similar manner to lungs. Below you see a drawing of a giant gourami’s (Osphronemus goramy) gills and the labyrinth organ. When the fish gulps air it fills this chamber. When you see a bubble rise out of your betta’s mouth it is not burping but releasing the air from the labyrinth chamber. This strange organ also allows bettas to build bubble nests and certain species of Betta spp to be mouth-brooders. This means they carry their eggs in their mouth until they hatch instead of guarding a nest. The strange little labyrinth organ makes bettas and gourami unique among fishes we commonly see in pet stores and in our tanks. But their ability to breathe air should never be used as an excuse to keep them in sub-standard conditions. They should be appreciated for their uniqueness and treated like any other tropical fish: with clean, warm water. Because betta fish and gourami are obligate air breathers they have to take gulps of air even at night. For a fish with no large plants or decorations near the surface this often means sleeping on the substrate and dashing to the surface for air. To prevent the fish having to exert a lot of energy to make it to the surface, offer large floating plants like water sprite or have large-leafed plants like java fern close enough to the surface. The betta hammock is an artificial leaf if you don’t want to work with live plants. Don’t put it directly under the light as bettas enjoy sleeping in the shade.

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How to make betta fry grow faster Let’s make betta fry grow faster. Each person has a unique perspective on this issue. We saw fish on the list online auction Aquabid or on the website to create your own reputation, that they achieve the perfect beauty when only 2 or 3 months old, and then look to seem frustrating at the child his age as tadpole 4 months and wondering what I was doing wrong. These advantages make your fish grow faster, of course, that you can achieve your breeding goals faster by conducting the next Rice pressed after every 3-4 months instead of 7-8 months. Because most people are attracted to breeding betta fish, specifically because of the combination of colors / patterns their almost unlimited, and proceed to the next generation as quickly as possible is which we most desire. However, you can also among the breeders for whom the betta fish just entertainment but not interested they grow too slowly. In that case, the following guidelines may be helpful for you if you like to display or sell their fish, and want them to grow as fast as possible in a given time. Water for betta fry grow faster Here is what I think is the most important of these important water quality. Most new breeders usually do not change the water level enough that they should take to fry grow rapidly. The main reason is the only dedicated breeders feel the need to change the water once or twice a week is sufficient to maintain concentrations of ammonia and nitrite / nitrate in the aquarium. Although this is necessary to ensure long-term healthy betta fry, but change the water twice a week is not enough to help your fry grow best. This explanation is not simple. The scientific research has demonstrated that most species of fish, including bettas, secretes hormones that inhibit growth. Bettas in the offspring, it can be said that the growth hormone potential limitations of the smaller children in the herd and bring advantages to the bigger, stronger. Although it is difficult to explain the significant difference in size between the fishes in the same herd, in my personal opinion based on what I know, this hormone actually inhibits the growth of fish so they can not grow fast in their living environment. In nature, this is a useful tool to ensure that there is enough space and resources for the whole flock. Also in the tank, this is not favorable. Only a few in the herd of about a hundred in the 10 gallon will soon release a sufficient amount of hormone to inhibit the growth of a strong unless the water is changed, and changed on a regular basis. I replace at least 50% of your aquarium water every day. Other successful breeders say that they replace 80-100% of water per day and get great results. Began to change the water when they reach 2 weeks of age. If you start pressing the water a half, when they reach about 2 weeks old, you can begin to add water, one gallon at a time, on each day until full tank. This process should last for 4-7 days, then fry large enough to be able to use a siphon tube to change the water more easily. Just suck the dregs from the bottom of the tank with a small siphon tube (I tied the end of the tube into a syringe for easy manipulation) and carefully vacuum the bottom of the tank. When the lake is clean, you can use the cups to scoop out the remaining 50% of the water fast and can detect if you happen to hit any child. When you scoop out half of the water, you simply fill the tank with clean water has been treated. I do not recommend more than 50-70% water changes every day. Although the fish grow faster when all hormones are taken out of the water, but I found that instead of the entire country when young fish can make them nervous. After the fish are separated, you may be able to continue to make the fish grow by 100% water changes every day. Feeding betta fry grow faster Although I always betta suggested by the best type of food that you have but I noticed that only a minor problem compared to the water quality. Betta reaches exhibition size within 4 months with nothing but frozen food and lots of water changes. Fresh or frozen food does not play a decisive role for fish to grow quickly, but they can improve the health and general condition of the fish, but it also contributed to the fish reach larger size – so please applied when you can. An interesting method to feed bettas thrive is described by a breeder from IBC Rod Panerio, he said that the betta can reach the exhibition size within 8-12 weeks of using this technique . He combines several water changes to cram for fry large quantities of fresh food rich in protein. Food choices consistent with the size of the fish, he said the greatest foods that they can swallow. Fish were fed several times a day, so much so that they can eat. Some might argue that this approach is extreme because he noted that many fish die of indigestion. However, this method provides remarkably effective! As mentioned, he is also rather a lot of water in the aquarium, a strong push to create beautiful betta fish, notably large and rapidly in a very short time. I realized that if I replace plenty of water every day, it can take a lot of time, especially when you have a lot of lakes. This is very difficult to implement, especially when most of us still have to sort of work, family and other activities not related to fish. However, if you get stuck in the fish, I simply suggest that you try to do – even once – just to see what happens .. I believe you will be satisfied with the results. Besides stimulating the betta fish grow faster, regular water changes with food quality also makes beautiful betta once they mature. So you roll up his sleeves and plunged his hand into the water. I think you will discover that it is worth it.

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Why does my betta fish have a big belly It can definitely be a little odd when you wake up one day to see that your Siamese fighting fish or betta fish have a big belly. Bloating, gassiness, and a big belly are not things that you might think your fish can suffer from, but that is not true at all. Betta fish can and do often have big bellies, unnaturally big bellies which they did not have yet last week. This is most likely a bad sign and it needs to be taken seriously. So, why does my Betta fish have a big belly? Overfeeding Your Betta Fish One of the main causes of bloating and oddly big bellies in Betta splendens is overfeeding. The reality is that many people over feed their fish, which is especially true for beginners. Of course, just like with us humans, over feeding a fish is not a good thing at all. If you feed your Betta fish too much, it will definitely enlarge their bellies, bloat them, and even cause other problems further on down the line. Over feeding a Betta fish can result in many different issues. One of these issues is a swim bladder disorder that renders them unable to right themselves in the water. There are also other serious issues that can occur, such as constipation, which is definitely a big cause and a result of bloating at the same time. Constipation comes with its own set of problems that neither you nor your Betta fish want to have to deal with. Furthermore, Betta fish are carnivores, so if you feed them too much plant based foods, they will not feel well, get bloated, and most of the food they ate passes through them undigested. This is a pretty big problem because all of that undigested matter releases a whole lot of ammonia and other unwanted substances into the water. The point here is that feeding your Betta fish too much food is usually what causes bloating and the appearance of a big belly in the majority of situations. The trick is to feed them no more than they can handle. You should feed your Betta fish twice per day, giving them no more than they can eat in a total of two minutes for both eating sessions. You should space the feedings out evenly to be 12 hours apart in order to give the Betta fish time to digest the food. Remember folks, the Betta fish has a stomach the size of its eye ball, so over feeding is easily done if you are not paying attention. Lean more about Which best food for betta fish Bloating From Dropsy Now, over feeding your Betta fish, while it can have serious consequences, if you realize what you are doing early enough, is fairly easily fixed and avoided. However, there are more serious causes of why your Betta fish has a big belly. One of these causes is a very serious condition called Dropsy. Dropsy is not actually a disease on its own, but a resulting side effect of other conditions. These causes can include over feeding, a swim bladder disorder, high levels of ammonia and nitrates in the water, as well as parasites and bacteria that have infected your Betta fish. These are all causes of dropsy and they will make your Betta fish’s belly bloat and swell up quite visibly. Dropsy is actually the failure of the major organs in your fish. In case you are unsure of whether or not your fish has dropsy, other symptoms include elongated scales, loss of appetite, loss of color, lethargy, sluggishness, clamped fins, pine coning, and a swim bladder disorder. The big problem here is that once your fish reaches the dropsy stage, when fluids are building up internally and organs are failing, it is almost impossible to treat. It can be treated in rare cases, but even so, dropsy and the accompanying organ failure often comes back for a second round. If it does not prove fatal the first time around, it will most often be fatal the second time. our Betta Fish Is Pregnant Another reason why your Betta fish might have a very large belly is because it is a female and she is full of eggs. The first thing you will want to do is to confirm that you indeed have a female Betta fish. The buildup of eggs happens in most female Betta fish when they are preparing to lay eggs and mate with a male. Of course, the eggs take up a good amount of space, so an enlarged belly is very normal here. If you have a female, if she has white vertical stripes, and has a little white tube or dot on here belly (where the eggs come out of), you can rest assured that your Betta fish is pregnant. Now, while this issue is not too serious on its own, you will need to learn how to deal with the Betta fish fry. Some people keep them and take care of them, some people sell the young Betta fish fry for money, and some just let the parents eat the young, as Betta fish are known to do. A Tumor In very rare cases, a Betta fish may have a big and bloated belly due to a tumor. This does not happen all that often, but it does happen. In other words, the bloating is not actually bloating, but a tumor visibly bulging. In pretty much every case, unfortunately, tumors in Betta fish will prove to be fatal, either sooner or later. Conclusion If your Betta fish has a big belly that is enlarged and looks very bloated, it could be due to several different reasons. If you cannot manage to find the cause, and thus the solution, on your own, you should go to a vet and seek medical help for your Betta fish. While bloating might not seem like a big deal, the reality is that it is often either a cause or a result of a more serious issue that can be disastrous.

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How to Set up a Betta Tank One of the most common questions that people ask when it comes to bettas is, “What’s the best betta tank setup?” Alongside food, perhaps the most important factor that affects a betta’s well-being is the quality of its water and its tank or aquarium setup. In this lens, I’m going to discuss the importance of having a good tank setup for your pet betta fish and how you can maintain the health and beauty of your fish by giving the best home he could have. Size Does Matter While it’s true that bettas can survive regardless of the tank setup (thanks to their labyrinth organ which allows them to breath oxygen even in small bodies of water), size still matters. Most siamese fighting fish experts agree that in order for bettas to live full, quality lives, they have to be housed in tanks no smaller than 2.5 gallons. And with that, I mean housing ONE male betta per tank. Bettas can live an average of 2 years, but I have heard of several accounts of bettas living up to 5 years because they have been kept in large tanks. To give you an idea on the best betta tank setup you can choose from, feel free to read along. Types Of Betta Tank Setup (From Best to Worst) Individual Tank (2.5 to 5 gallons) I believe, and most betta experts would agree that this is the best tank setup for your betta fish. Filtered or unfiltered, what makes small individual tanks an excellent choice is that they are easier to clean and maintain. If you wish to place a filtering system, make sure you choose a model that has a flow control. Strong currents from power filters can hinder your betta from building bubble nests (which they love to do!). Corner filters are also good but stay away from undergravel filters as much as possible especially if you are using a tank smaller than 5 gallons. With undergravel filters, you are required to take everything out of your tank (pebbles, plants, accessories, everything!) every time you need to perform a full water change so it is not advisable. It’s also okay not to put a filter on your tank just like in my case. However, you have to understand that dirt and ammonia can easily build up in smaller tanks especially when they are not filtered. Therefore, if you decide not to put a filter in your small tank, make sure you perform FULL water changes on a regular basis. For 2.5 to 4 gallon tanks, I suggest doing FULL water changes every 3-5 days. For 5 gallon tanks, you can do water changes every 5-7 days, provided that you replace at least 25 percent of the water once within that period to maintain the quality of your water. Read more : 5 Min guide make good betta fish water When it comes to adding heaters, I suggest you only add one if you are living in countries that experience cold seasons. Since I live in Asia, I don’t put heaters to any of my tanks because the temperature ranges from 76-82 degrees Fahrenheit all year long. One advice in adding heaters: Don’t add one if your tank is smaller than 5 gallons since most heaters can heat up water in small tanks really fast and may kill your betta. I consider this setup as second best because most of the breeders I know keep their bettas in tanks this size. This is the perfect setup if you are a breeder and are keeping 200 plus bettas in your home. You definitely don’t have to put a filter for this setup since it’s too small to have one, so that means you have to perform FULL water changes every 2-3 days. Betta Trivia: What do you think of this betta tank setup? Divided Tank Haven’t tried this setup yet but what I’ve heard and read from those who have is that it is not a very good tank setup for your betta. The problem with this setup is that even though two or more male bettas have dividers to separate them, they are sharing the same water. When one of your bettas get sick, there’s a huge chance that the others will get contaminated. So if you’re planning to go for this kind setup, forget it. Community Tank This setup is pretty similar to the divided tank, only that it doesn’t use any dividers. The problem with this setup is that your betta is going to share the same thank with other types of tropical fish, and since bettas are aggressive in nature, they can go and attack other fish smaller than themselves. Or if you put them together with other aggressive fish like tiger barbs, the tables can turn and they can fall victim to these fin nipping fish. Finally, just like in divided tanks, your betta is going to share the same water with other fish, which means they have a higher chance of acquiring disease. While this kind of setup may seem to be attractive, I don’t recommend it at all. Female betta fish sorority tanks Performing Water Changes For Betta Tanks Next to food, water quality is the best determining factor of the health and beauty of your betta splendens. Most betta diseases are a result of poor water quality, and could be avoided through regular water changes. Believe it or not, many betta experts agree that the best way to maintain the quality of the fins of long-finned bettas such as halfmoons and crowntails is by performing massive water changes. And by massive, they mean changing the water of your betta’s tank as frequent as every day! This may not apply to you if you are only keeping your betta exclusively as a pet, but if you wish to maintain the beauty of your show type bettas, then there’s no other way around it but to maintain your betta’s water quality through regular water change. So how exactly do you change the water of your betta’s tank? I have here a table of different tank sizes and how frequent you should change their water: Tank Size Frequency of Water Change Gallon and below ————————————————————–2 to 3 days 5 to 5 gallons (unfiltered)—————————————————-5 to 7 days Gallons and up (filtered)——————————————————Once a month (25% weekly) When performing water changes, I suggest taking out everything and changing 100 percent of the water. Unlike other tropical fish, bettas are selectively bred, and their fins are highly sensitive to dirty water. You also don’t have to worry about stressing them when doing 100% percent water changes because the rule that says you have to leave at least 10 or 20% of the water unchanged does not apply to bettas. Always use aged water for your bettas, and make sure to add water conditioner before putting your betta back inside the tank. Your tap water may contain chlorine and other elements that might be harmful to your betta, so you would want to treat it first with a water dechlorinator. Water dechlorinators are fast-acting and can eliminate chlorine and chloramines from the water within minutes, but still, aging your water or letting it settle for a day or two before using it is still necessary to ensure its quality. Final Thoughts On Adding Tank Accessories Tank accessories such as substrate, live/plastic plants, heater, and filtration system are a great addition to any betta tank. However, you have to consider your goal for keeping a betta first before deciding on adding them. Are you keeping bettas for the sake of a hobby? Or, are you breeding them to make some money? If your answer is the former, then I would say it’s okay to add accessories to your betta tank setup especially if you’re only keeping a few bettas (1-5 maybe). However, if you are breeding bettas for a living, then there’s no point in adding accessories to your tank since you’re going to keep more than 200 hundred bettas once your breeding becomes successful. As I have said, most breeders keep their betta fry in tanks smaller than 1 gallon, and since they’re going to dispose of them anyway, they leave their tanks bare. This a common practice among betta breeders in Thailand and other parts of Asia. Meanwhile, here are some of the pros and cons of adding accessories to your betta tank setup: The Pros: Accessories make your betta tank attractive. Substrate such as pebbles can serve as biological filtration for your betta tank. Some accessories can serve as hideout for your betta. The Cons: Accessories can give you a difficult time cleaning your betta tank especially if you are keeping more than five bettas. Sharp edges either from plastic/live plants or from other add-ons can cause damage to your betta’s fins. Betta tank accessories can be pretty expensive. Some live plants are not easy to maintain. When the leaves rot, they can be the cause of disease for your betta. Furthermore, let me point out to you the only instances when you should add accessories to your betta tank such as filtration system, heater, substrate, plants, and more. If you cannot commit to perform regular water changes for your betta tanks. (Your filtration system helps keep your betta tank clean for weeks) If you are living in countries that experience cold seasons. (You will definitely need a heater to keep your betta water warm) If you are keeping only a few bettas (what I consider few is around 1-5 bettas). I’m not saying that you cannot add accessories to your betta tanks at all if you are keeping hundreds of bettas. I’m only suggesting that the ideal tank setup for them is the bare tank. Some breeders design a drip system for their bettas for easy water maintenance. In the end, it’s up to you to decide what you think and feel is the best betta tank setup for you and your fish. And hopefully, you are fully aware of the pros and cons of each of the betta tank setup that you can choose from.

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Simple Live Food Cultures For Growing Healthy Betta Fry Simple Live Food Cultures For Growing Healthy Betta Fry. Hobbies can mold a person’s life in a way that can be unimaginable. Not only can they help you to be productive, but also provide you with immense knowledge. In this world, anything and everything can be a hobby, be it creating art or helping people. One such interesting hobby is raising aquarium fish. While it can be a hobby it can also be work. Whatever form it is, raising aquarium betta fish can be a fun task that will give you lots of knowledge and satisfaction. Raising Betta fry can be work but it can also be lots of fun. Let’s make your healthy betta fry While some aquarium fish species don’t need much attention, growing Betta fry requires a little of your time, patience, knowledge, and dedication. One cannot just let things happen completely on its own to the Betta fry. A person has to follow several steps if he or she wants his Betta fry to grow healthy. If one neglects proper Betta care and feeding it is quite likely that the Betta fry would be unhealthy, not grow normally, or perhaps even die. Betta fish are a bubble-nesting species. Their fry will spend the first few days in the nest. This nest will be guarded by the male Betta who will ensure that no fry falls off the nest. During this period, the fry feed on their yolk sacs attached to its bodies and thus require no additional food. Once they start swimming, you will have to feed them. What and how much you feed them determines how healthy and quickly your culture will grow. Here are some of the feeding steps that one must follow so that the Betta Fry culture grows not only quickly, but also healthy. Culture of Infusoria One must start the culture of Infusoria several days before the Betta pair will spawn. This is done so that the Infusoria culture is ready before the fry hatch. Infusoria will be fed to the fry for the few days after it has completed feeding on the yolk sacs. Infusoria are tiny aquatic organisms that the fry can hunt down easily and consume. How to Culture Infusoria Take a large plastic or glass jar and fill it with water. Then ‘seed’ it with Infusoria, which is available at local fish stores and even from online live food culture suppliers. To feed Infusoria, you can boil a piece of lettuce and place it in the jar. Wait for a few days for the fry to hatch. Before hatching and before the free-swimming stage fry in its microform feeds on its egg yolk and the male Betta takes care of the fry. So, all you have to do is wait for it to start swimming. Remove the Male Betta Once the Betta fry has become free-swimming remove the male Betta splendens from the tank. Though the male Betta usually does not harm the Betta fry, to be on a safer side, remove it and give it a separate tank as it’s new home. Maintain the Temperatures of the Tank It is very important that the temperature of the tank is well maintained. Any drastic change in the water temperature can hamper the growth of the culture. It is recommended that the water temperature remains between 75 to 80 Fahrenheit in which the Betta fry culture is present. A temperature controller may be a good idea for delicate use especially and you can find more about making a temperature controller here. Feed Infusoria to Your Betta Fry Culture You can now start feeding Infusoria to your Betta Fry Culture. With the help of a dropper you can siphon small amounts of Infusoria into the tank. Make sure that you don’t mix any vegetable matter because the fry cannot consume anything bigger than the Infusoria at this stage. Feed the Betta fry this Infusoria three to four times a day. After four days or so, the fry will be big enough to consume larger food. Offer Your Healthy Betta Fry Baby Brine Shrimp Now that your Betta fry group is big enough to consume larger food, you can offer the culture newly hatched brine shrimps. You can use the dropper and feed them with brine shrimp in a similar manner as the Infusoria three to four times a day. Once they have grown even more you can start offering the culture a variety of other small foods. They can be fed with micro worms and older brine shrimp often called artemia. You can also feed your Betta with crushed freeze-dried foods like bloodworms and daphnia. Transfer your Betta fry into a bigger tank so that they have a bigger space to grow. Until the fry reaches 8 weeks of age, feed them 3 or 4 times a day. After about 8 weeks, when they are at least 3 or 4 inches long in size, you can keep your individual Bettas in separate jars and tanks and treat them like an adult Betta. Feed them quality food twice a day and continue raising them to maturity. Also, one should note that Betta fry requires protein more than the matured Bettas. Once your fry have reached maturity and look and act like adults you can change to your normal regimen of feeding for healthy Betta. Often the hardest part of raising tropical fish in the aquarium can be feeding. We often overlook that tiny fry need tiny foods, and some have requirements like having their food move around to draw interest to the fry. Feeding tiny live foods serves both of these purposes. Try feeding live foods, it’s easy and a good way to grow more healthy fry to maturity in each batch you raise.

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Live food or Fairy Shrimp for betta fish Which is the best food for betta fish? The red-tailed fairy shrimp (Streptocephalus sealii) is a freshwater cousin to the popular brine shrimp. Newly hatched fairy shrimp are smaller than newly hatched brine shrimp and are useful for feeding fry that are too small for brine shrimp. Both Thai and red-tailed fairy shrimp eggs can be purchased on-line though Amazon. This blog deals with hatching and raising the red-tailed variety and the care requirements for the Thai fairy shrimp may be different for betta fish For hatching fairy shrimp eggs, water with a low mineral content is required. The directions that come with the eggs suggest bottled spring water, but 3 to 4 parts distilled or R/O water mixed with 1 part aged aquarium water also works well. Add a small amount of eggs to the water and stir. The water should be stirred again after the eggs have hydrated for an hour or two. No aeration is needed and the hatching container should be well lit and kept at room temperature. Hatching takes about 24 hours and the newly hatched shrimp should be fed to your fry shortly after hatching. Since it is a freshwater culture you can pour the shrimp in with your fry and they will live until eaten. You can also gut load your shrimp by feeding them green water or powdered spirulina algae before feeding to your fry if desired. Important for betta fish fry Because their life cycle requires that the eggs enter a dormant stage by being dried and chilled, they are not suited to a continuous culture. However, it is easy to raise them to adults and collect the eggs. If you plan on raising some fairy shrimp to a larger size then a shallow container with lots of surface area works best. Plastic shoebox containers work well. Fill your container with about an inch of water and add a small amount of eggs. Mix well then mix again in an hour or two. Light the culture with a bright light and keep at room temperature. Once the eggs start hatching you can feed the shrimp. Although the instructions for the eggs say to feed the shrimp with yeast, better growth rates can be achieved using green water or powdered spirulina and these are less likely to foul the water. Add just enough food to tint the water green and repeat once the water clears up. At this point you can add an airstone with a slow airflow to help keep the food suspended. Also adding a few ramshorn snails will help keep the bottom and sides free from algae and settled food. To maintain your culture, siphon off any debris from the bottom of the container and add back in a little more water than you removed to gradually raise the water level. You can feed any excess shrimp to your fish as they grow. A healthy culture can maintain about 20 adult shrimp per gallon of water. At about 4 weeks your shrimp will start producing eggs and you will see egg sacks on the females. At this point you will want to start saving anything that you siphon off the bottom. Put the siphoned material into a jar and let it settle then pour off the excess water. Continue to collect the eggs until your shrimp die of old age at about 8 weeks. Next pour all the collected eggs into a brine shrimp net and rinse well then allow to dry. Once dry the eggs can be packaged in a plastic bag, labeled, and put in the refrigerator for 3 to 6 weeks after which they will be ready to to hatch. Because the life cycle of the fairy shrimp doesn’t allow for a continuous culture or harvesting mass quantities of eggs, it is not likely to replace brine shrimp as a staple diet for fry. However they do make a good transitional food until fry are large enough for brine shrimp and adult shrimp that are near the end of their life cycle make an excellent conditioning food for adult fish.

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Breeding the Super Black Betta OK, I have heard so many people’s ideas on super black betta’s and most of them are lost on black genetics betta fish or what goes into creating a good foundation. The info we see, much of it bad info and some of it just wrong is not helping anyone. I will try to make it as easy as I can to understand and get the B.S. story of black bettas corrected. How to Breed black betta fish The first very wrong info you will read online or in breeder forums is that all solid black betta females are not fertile. Well 20 years ago this was kinda true to some extent but not true as of the early 1990’s. The double black betta’s of modern times are now-days fertile, in fact very much so even to the extent of being better breeders than fancy types! When this type of female betta fish is spawned to a Double Black male, a melano- male, black super or a black lace male the resulting spawn will produce 100% viable Black offspring. The reason for this and an ongoing hypothesis among my wife and I, that the fertilized Double Black (black x black) female eggs have two types of protein producing genetics and come into play very random. Now remember that this genetic mutation comes in to play at random and either turns on or turns off and nothing you can do to change the outcome. You could think of it as flipping a coin or playing a slot machine, some will be a win and some will not. The more pairs you try the better the chance. Let start breeding Super Black betta fish Let’s start out simple and say life the fertilized eggs go with the Melano type genetics (coin toss – heads), the eggs will not hatch. If the fertilized eggs go with Black Lace genetics (coin toss -tails), they will develop mostly normal. The reason the whole blacks cannot breed thing really came down to chance in the early years. Because in the beginning generations of blacks this gene was not yet understood or known, and for sure some Double Black females were and are fertile and yet some are not. People just did not connect the dots back then and nor did we. In about 1997 the lights came on and we decided to breed or cull all of our blacks. Over 200 pairs we crossed and we started to notice a pattern. That was when we first started to do super blacks. The first super blacks were more of a orchid type with later years going to more jet black as we removed iridescence and strong blue and green genes and latter adding red to make it even darker. But through selective breeding programs the black bettas of today produce viable fry and are jet black, if you breed one of the good females (black lace) then all Double Black females among those fries will be fertile and can be used as your foundation breeders in your black lines. Latter you can work on fin types or size correction out crossing to your blues or reds or greens as needed. The one issue with super blacks is the fins are never great. So once you have the fins fixed keep the line.. Super blacks have some form of either steel blue, or green or royal blue in them to give the jet-black look people love. Now that we are in the year 2018 and not 1990 red lines have been able to produce blacks also. This could be in part to the wilds being more readily available and the red and black layers have ben flipped or just better understanding of genetics by caring breeders. So, in super blacks you can either have a red line or a blue line foundation stock for super black. In black suppers keep in mind you will always see some red or blue in the fins if you look close and melano- and lace types you will not see the red or blue in any fin rays. If you take your time selecting the right blacks it is possible to get jet black super blacks without any color or very little blue or red showing. Though genetically speaking this is not a double black.. What you are really looking for is a fish that is Homozygous on your foundation breeders. Or in other words two identical alleles. An individual that is homozygous-dominant for a particular trait, in this case double black carries two copies of the allele that codes for the dominant trait. So, you are looking for XX and not Xx if you understand. Homozygous = has 2 copies of a gene (eg 2 copies of black lace, 2 copies of melano) Heterozygous = has only 1 copy of a gene Recessive/dominant = if a gene is recessive the presence of the gene won’t be apparent from the creature’s physical appearance unless it has 2 genes for that feature. It will be ‘masked’ if the creature has a different gene for the same feature which is dominant. If you cross black lace x black lace both parents will contribute a black lace gene and the offspring will all be black lace. Easy Right! (Unless I missed something obvious). If you cross melano x melano the embryos will die, due to a protein reaction that occurs after fertilization which is understood to be related to the way certain proteins clump together in a melano – which is what causes the denseness of the black but also is fatal to the embryo. There are a few that have been able to get some fry from melano x melano but later I do not know how the genetics will play out. You can fel free to have me add your info if you have done this cross and had any living adults from the spawn. If you cross a black lace fish with a melano fish, the black lace will contribute a single black lace gene. The melano fish will contribute a single melano gene. So, the offspring will have only 1 black lace gene and only 1 melano gene. Because they do not have 2 of either gene for black, the fry will not be super black. So, now you are asking yourself what is double black? As best I can describe it that is easy to understand, it is a fish that is homozygous for black lace (ie both parents gave it a black lace gene, so it has 2 of them) and it is also homozygous for melano (ie both parents gave it a melano gene, so it has 2 of them). It looks jet black, and the females are fertile. I bet know you are asking how do you produce more melano fish, if the melano females are ‘infertile’ and crossing a melano with a black lace doesn’t give you black fish? You can cross a melano male with a blue fish (usually steel as it is the least iridescent of the blues blue type or a wild will also work, keeping in mind the red and black layer in wilds is reversed when compared to domestic bettas) or black lace type hybrid male. All the offspring will inherit 1 melano gene from the melano father. You then do a F1 cross, or preferably cross a female from F1 back to the melano father. We know that she has at least one melano gene as her father is melano. This will result in 50% melano offspring and 50% that are not black but carry the recessive melano gene. OR you can use a steel blue, solid green, royal blue x black lace female you know is melano geno (ie has 1 melano gene from her father) who is not necessarily related to the melano male. Again, you’d obtain 50% melano offspring. How do you get double blacks? This is where years of breeding come in and the wife tails go out, Ok, this is how I do it and proof it works. Black lace and melano are not mutually exclusive. You can have genes for both types of black in the same fish. So Melano x Black Lace gives you offspring with one melano gene and one black lace gene. Cross 2 of those offspring and you’ll get: 25% homozygous for black lace 25% homozygous for non-black (not black phenotype) 50% heterozygous for black lace (not black phenotype) AND (hope I have not lost you yet) 25% homozygous for melano 25% homozygous non-black (not black phenotype) 50% heterozygous for melano. (not black phenotype) So which ones do you breed to get double blacks in 2018? well … here we go > a melano (denser black) pair and if the embryos survive, you know the female is heterozygous for both both black lace and melano. There is no other good reliable way I see yet for beginners, as I don’t believe you could tell from a phenotypically black fish if it was also homozygous for black lace until you get some breeding under your belt. In any case if you have more info on a newer way or a way the is more or less fool proof for new breeders please let us know.

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The History of Betta Fighting Fish History of betta fighting fish, Accessorizing with fish was not what the people of Siam originally had in mind when they started collecting Bettas prior to the 1800s. Known as Siamese Fighting Fish, the Betta fish of that time were not the same elegant, little fish we see today. With much smaller fins and a dirty greenish-brown hue, they were bred for competitive fighting and not for the fame of their magnificent finnage and colors. Native to Siam, (now Thailand), Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam and parts of China, these fish became accustomed to water temperatures that were often at or above 80 degrees. History of betta Collecting In the history of betta Collecting for the children of Malaysia, in southern China, collecting these Siamese fighting fish was a favorite pastime. The children would catch as many as 50 Bettas an hour from the rice paddies, and then conduct fish fights to determine the village champion. Usually, the winner was the biggest fish they caught. Once the wounds healed on the prize-winning fish, he would go into competition again against a new opponent. This pastime diminished significantly when agricultural chemicals and mechanized plowing were introduced for the harvesting of the rice paddies. However, the fields were not the only place where one could find Bettas. They were also living in watery ditches, stagnant ponds and gentle flowing streams. History of Betta Fighting Matches Known as plakat, which means tearing or biting fish, the wild Bettas generally would have short-lived fights of only a few minutes. Nevertheless, once the Siamese started to breed them specifically for fighting, these matches could go on for hours. The winner was determined, not by the wounds he inflicted, but instead by his willingness to continue fighting. The losing fish retreated and the match was over. Destruction to the families of the men betting on the fish was also substantial, with potential losses as great as his money, his house, and on occasion, his wife or other family members! Observing the obvious popularity of these fights, the King of Siam started licensing and collecting these fighting fish. In 1840, he gave some of his prized fish to a man who, in turn, gave them to Dr. Theodor Cantor, a medical scientist from Bangor. Describing these fish in an article nine years later, Dr. Cantor gave them the name Macropodus Pugnax. In 1909, Mr. Tate Regan renamed them Betta Splendens, noting that there already was a betta species with the name Dr. Cantor used. It is believed that Mr. Regan got the name from a warrior-like tribe of people named “Bettah”. By the last quarter of the 1800’s, the Betta Splendens were introduced into France and Germany and in 1910 they were first seen in the United States. With the variety of colors and fin combinations introduced, these fish were considered to be a different species, thus a long list of alternate names was created. The Modern-Day Betta Today, Betta Splendens are the most popular fish with breeders in the United States and Japan. Commercial Betta farms in Malaysia and Singapore breed both display Splendens and fighting Splendens, with the breeding of the fighters producing the most revenue. Fighters are often discarded following their matches and new ones are bought, whereas, display Splendens live up to four years. The Colorful Betta Although Betta fish were originally bred for their fighting tendencies – and still are today – colorful mustard bettathey have become more widely sought after for their vibrant colors and “showy” fins, both of which have earned the Betta the nickname “The Jewel of the Orient.” In the wild, bettas only display vibrant colors when they are agitated, but breeders have been able to make the trait permanent and have developed a wide array of vivid hues that are specific to the breed. Bettas are usually available in red, pink, orange, green, blue, black, cream and even an opaque white. The blues ranges from very dark to very bright as well as light blue and turquoise. These blues – along with greens – are typically somewhat iridescent, unlike black or reds. Betta Color Patterns Breeders have also developed color patterns in betta fish, including marbling, which is usually blue and red with a pale base color, and “butterfly” coloring, which means the betta’s body is a solid color, but its fins are divided into two distinct colors. bettas are also now bred in metallic colors such as copper, gold, rust and platinum. Betta Fish Tails Betta fish are also bred to have a wide variety of tail fins. These can include the Veil Tail, red betta fishwhich is the most common type, where the tail appears to arch up before draping down like a veil. Crown Tail Bettas have spiky, separated tips on their fins, while Half-Moon Tails have straight edges and, just like a half-moon shape, spread open in a 180-degree angle. Rose Tail Bettas have so much going on in the fin department, their tails drape and overlap, giving them the appearance of overlapping rose petals. Although similar to Rose Tails, the fins on Feather Tail Bettas have a more ruffled, feathered appearance. Other tail types include the Delta, Super Delta, Double Tail, Spade Tail, Half sun, and many more. New Betta Varieties Breeders around the globe are continuously developing new varieties of Betta fish – including working to introduce the same range of colors in female bettas that had previously only been available in male bettas. Another a recent addition to the betta family is the Giant betta, which was developed in 1999. Two very large betta fish were located and bred, and their offspring was bred again and again to establish a line of Giant Bettas, which are significantly larger than standard betta fish. History of Betta Fun Facts! The fish have become so popular, they’ve even earned their place in pop culture. Here are some fun facts: Betta fish fighting techniques are referenced as a strategy in the 1963 James Bond movie, From Russia With Love. The criminal organization SPECTRE plans to let the U.S. and Soviet Russia “fight to the death” until one loses, then take on the exhausted winner – just like Siamese Fighting Fish. Meanwhile, the popular Disney Channel series Fish Hooks features Milo, a Siamese Fighting Fish, while betta fish have been used as backgrounds and screensavers for both Windows 7 and Windows 8 operating systems.

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Betta fish care infographic Just because they are pretty doesn’t mean they are hard to take care of. Betta fish are common in countertop settings inside a glass vase with little more than floating vegetation to keep them company. You can find them at almost any Nice Betta Thailand.CO.,LTD International betta fish farm. The betta’s full name is actually the Siamese fighting fish due to its discovery in freshwater Asian rice paddies–areas susceptible to drought and notorious for wagered fish battles. Because of its limited aquatic habitat, bettas developed a lung-like organ that allows them to obtain oxygen through the air, not just by passing water over their gills. This adaptation classifies them as a labyrinth fish. This means they can survive for a small amount of time outside of water! It is also the reason they are able to survive in fish bowls lacking water flow for oxygen. However, water quality is always important in fish care. Bettas will have a much better caliber of life if they are in a small, slightly filtered tank with good water conditions instead of a vase. Betta fish tank requirements also include correct water temperature around 74 degrees (they like warm water). Each fish requires about a gallon tank of clean water. Bettas or betta splendens, especially males, are aggressive. They will fight other betta tankmates, so keep them separated. Females can sometimes get along with other non-betta tropical fish, brine shrimp, or other aquarium fish. But even a male betta and female betta cannot cohabitate in a community tank. Bettas like to have a place to hide such as floating live plants. They feed on floating foods, preferring bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia,and specialized betta pellets. They are carnivores so don’t feed them fish flakes! Feed them as much as they will eat in two minutes. Diet is important for maintaining coloration in their flowing fins. The Tropical Fish Care Guides explain that proper care includes feeding betta fish a special diet. And according to their experts, betta food consists of: “A Betta’s diet should be protein-rich and meaty. Pellets, frozen or live bloodworms, daphnia, and brine shrimp are best.” Freeze-dried bloodworms will work just as well. Twice-a-week new water changes are ideal if the fish lives in a bowl to avoid fin rot. If you’re ready to add this beautiful fish with its bright colors to your home make sure you have your checklist complete. Easy care makes betta fish a popular choice with novice aquarists. The list should include the betta tank (females like larger tanks), betta food, live plants, and lastly your betta fish! And don’t forget how important water quality (poor water quality is an issue) and water temperature is when you set up your betta tank. Pet shops like Petco and Petsmart sell betta fish and you can always call ahead with questions. Sales folks can help if you need to troubleshoot various aspects of your tank set up. Remember to let them eat shrimp so stock up! The Red Dragon Half-moon Betta is an exquisite variety and extremely popular. Ask about the Dragon Crowntail Betta too! Avoid Common Betta Fish Care Mistakes Small bowls (leads to stress & ammonia poisoning). Overfeeding (causes bloating & dirty water). Unheated tanks (weakens immune system). Tapping the glass (stresses the fish). By following these tips, your betta will thrive and live a long, healthy life (3–5 years or more)!

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Is this a Koi Betta fish? Don’t be mistaken. The above picture is a betta fish. This is what we call a koi betta fish. This breed have been created by the thailand breeders by mixing marble gene betta with clear cellophane or white bettas. It requires multiple generations of breeding to achieve such colors. Please beware that some koi betta will change colour as they age due to their marbling genes. Therefore it is possible that breeding 2 koi bettas will give you solid coloured betta fishes. Highly priced koi betta fish are thoses that have a single red spot on their head. Is this a Koi or Betta fish? In betta competition, koi betta compete in any other color class. It will be interesting to see how a koi betta colour develop from young. Please hit me up if you have any koi betta spawn and is willingly to put 1 male under my care. I will document it’s growth return the fish in the future ? What the different from Koi betta fish and other betta fish? Koi Betta fish are a specific color variant of the Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens), known for their striking marbled patterns that resemble koi carp. Here are the key differences between Koi Bettas and other Betta fish: 1. Coloration & Patterns Koi Betta: Exhibit marbled, patchy patterns resembling koi fish, often with red, orange, black, and white colors. Some have metallic or “galaxy“ iridescence. Patterns can change over time due to the marble gene. Regular Betta: Solid colors (e.g., blue, red, purple) or simple gradients. Some have two-tone (bi-color) or butterfly patterns, but not the same marbling as Koi Bettas. 2. Genetics Koi Bettas have a “marble gene”, causing their colors to shift unpredictably. Traditional Bettas (e.g., Veiltail, Crowntail) usually have stable, non-changing colors. 3. Rarity & Price Koi Bettas are rarer and more expensive due to their unique patterns. Common Bettas (e.g., solid red or blue) are widely available at lower prices. 4. Varieties (Tail Types) Koi Bettas can come in any tail type (e.g., Halfmoon, Plakat, Elephant Ear). Other Bettas are classified mainly by tail shape (e.g., Crowntail, Veiltail, Delta). 5. Popularity Koi Bettas are highly sought after for their koi-like beauty. Traditional Bettas are loved for vibrant solid colors or long, flowing fins. Conclusion koi betta fish If you want a Betta with changing, koi-inspired colors, go for a Koi Betta. If you prefer consistent, bold colors or specific fin types, a regular Betta may be better. Both need the same care (water, good filtration, and proper diet). Would you like help choosing the best type for your tank?

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Yes, Betta fish have teeth, very tiny white teeth. To see these teeth you will need to take a very close up look of your Betta’s open mouth – sometimes they are so small even at this close up look you may not see them (a magnifying glass may help). Betta Fish Have Teeth Because people know the aggressive fighting nature of Betta fish yet can’t see any teeth they often ask if Bettas have teeth. After hearing some of the fighting stories and watching a Betta tear at a bloodworm during feeding times owners are often surprised that they can’t see the teeth with their naked eye. What Do Betta’s Use Their Teeth For? The Betta’s teeth are used for feeding time. Used for chewing and munching at Betta pellets and cutting up dried Bloodworms (or any live food you may feed them) before eating them. Betta fish are carnivores, in their natural habitat they would feed on small waterbound insects and larvae – these fish have needed these small sharp teeth for hunting and killing from the rice paddies they originate from. As we all should know by now, Betta splenden or betta fish are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish and these teeth play a part in them acquiring that reputation! They will use those small sharp teeth to fight with other fish and rip up the fins of their opponent. Bettas are very territorial, especially male Bettas towards other male bettas – they should never be kept together or these teeth will come out! Betta sometimes will even attack other kinds of fish so you should be very careful about your betta tank mates – fish that are too colorful, have large fins or any that may nibble your betta are a no no. But you have no need to worry, these teeth can cause no pain to human hands. If after reading this blog you are brave enough to put your hands in your Betta fish tank you may feel a little nibble but they can’t bite hard enough to do any harm! They are just Bettas kisses!?

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When Betta Fish Die Young Why betta fish die young. Let’s know about bettas first. Betta splendens are among the most popular freshwater tropical fish out there, and it’s easy to see why. They’re beautiful, with their flowing fins and brilliant colors. They’re mysterious, originating from far-off lands in the East. And, of course, they are very dangerous, having been trained in super-secret fishy fighting styles. Top 6 Reasons Betta fish pass a way But no aquatic ninja skills can save bettas from the ultimate end that awaits us all. Ashes to ashes; fish flakes to fish flakes. One minute you’re swimming merrily along, the next you’re belly-up and stuck to the filter intake. There is no escaping the Angelfish of Death. Unfortunately, for many betta fish it all ends far too soon. If you are the keeper of such a fish it can be pretty disheartening when it dies before its time. You begin to wonder what you did wrong, what you may have done differently and if you deserve to keep a fish at all. I’ve been there, with bettas and other species of betta fish. All you can do it take an analytical view of your fish-keeping habits and try to puzzle out whether or not you made a key error somewhere along the line. In some cases you’ve done nothing wrong. Just like other pets, and even people, fish can suffer from congenital issues that shorten their lives. However, any time you unexpectedly lose a fish it is worth your time to take a look at things and see if you might need to change some of your practices. This article can help with that process. Here I’ve outlined some of the typical reasons betta fish die, and what you can do to avoid them. Why Did My Betta Fish Die? Poor water conditions: Clean water is a must for any fish, especially bettas. Low water temperatures: Bettas are tropical fish and need water temps between 75 and 80°F. Overfeeding: Excess food can kill your fish. Harassment by tank mates: Aggression—both from or directed at a betta—can reduce its lifespan. Stress: Many issues can contribute to stress for your betta, including some you may have never imagined. Issues beyond your control: Illnesses and hereditary issues can also cut a fish’s life short. Below, I describe these issues in detail and outline some ways to avoid each.

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NO GRAVEL IN TANK WORKS BEST Is it good to use gravel for decoration? It’s a question that fish keepers like to ask all the time. Because using gravel to decorate an aquarium looks more beautiful than an aquarium without any decorations. So let’s listen to the story. I have come to the conclusion that for my beta fish tanks I have decided to not use gravel anymore because it seems that bacteria sits and gravel a lot more than not. What I do now is just find a sticker that is a decoration of the bottom of an aquarium and I stick it to the actual bottom of the aquarium. And what you actually see is just a sticker seeing through the glass inside the fish tank. I have actually fooled a lot of people thinking that there was gravel because the sticker looks exactly like gravel. I got this idea from the fish store because I noticed that they were not using rocks at the bottom of their aquariums. And Iive noticed that my beta fish live a lot longer and Iive even had one for five years now with out having any gravel or rocks inside of the aquarium. I believe that a lot of the diseases and sickness that these fish get our catch is from the bacteria that sits inside of the gravel or rocks in the aquarium. These fish need a very clean habitat for them to live healthy and thats what I want to give them from now on. So Iive decided to eliminate all gravel and rocks in my beta fish tanks whatsoever. Others may disagree and some may totally agree with what I have to say here but this is my straight opinion. And I would advise that if you are having issues with fish dying and getting sick that is probably have to do with water clarity or bacteria growing in your gravel. I know that gravel and rocks can make an aquarium look totally cool and add a cosmetic value to that tank but it also includes a lot of bacteria that sticks of that stuff. And a lot of people claim that they have filters under the gravel but it still doesnt get it all and thats why they have gravel vacuums. Long story short something that I Sada pet store really helps me here and I am trying to help others by just stating what I do now as far as my beta aquariums. So if you are thinking about putting gravel inside of your aquarium I would second-guess that and maybe just get a sticker that goes on the bottom of it that looks like gravel. The water is a lot easier to filter and get cleaned if it is not hidden between gravel and making it easy for bacteria to sit in between.

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Let’s know what baby bettas eat. If you wake up one day to find baby betta fish in your tank, don’t panic! Raising betta fish fry can be a rewarding experience and, as long as you feed the fish properly, they will quickly grow into beautiful, colorful adult fish. Baby bettas first Few Days Baby betta fish typically hatch within 24 to 48 hours after spawning. Once they have hatched, the baby fish will spend the next three to four days absorbing the remainder of their yolk sac. During this time the baby fish will receive nutrients from their yolk sac and may not need a lot of additional food. To make sure your fry have food to eat, should they want it, hardboil an egg and place a small piece of the cooked yolk in a jar of water. Shake the jar vigorously to dissolve the yolk then pour some of the water into your baby betta fish tank. Once the fry become free-swimming, they will be ready to accept small live foods. Infusoria for baby bettas Infusoria are a type of liquid fry food that is often recommended for baby betta fish. This type of food is ideal for newly hatched fry because infusoria are small enough to be eaten by baby betta fish. Because the infusoria move, hey are also very attractive to baby fish. Infusoria can be purchased online and in some pet stores or you can raise your own infusoria from culture. To feed infusoria to your baby betta fish, simply use an eyedropper to collect some of the infusoria from the container you purchased them in, or from your culture tank if you raised the infusoria yourself, and squeeze them into your betta tank directly above your baby betta fish Brine Shrimp Nauplii for baby bettas After a few days of eating infusoria your baby betta fish should have grown enough to accept slightly larger foods. Baby brine shrimp, called brine shrimp nauplii, are an excellent food source for young betta fry because they are high in protein and easy to eat. Brine shrimp nauplii can be purchased online or in pet stores and fed to your betta fry following the same procedure used for infusoria. Collect an eyedropper full of water from the brine shrimp container, capturing as many of the brine shrimp nauplii as you can, and squeeze it directly into the betta tank. Larger Foods for baby bettas At three to four weeks of age, your baby betta fish will be able to accept a variety of live, frozen and freeze-dried foods in addition to traditional betta pellets. You may continue to feed your baby betta fish brine shrimp nauplii but should begin to vary the diet by adding some finely-crushed frozen and freeze-dried foods such as bloodworms, Daphnia and microworms. When selecting frozen and freeze-dried foods, be sure to purchase from a reputable supplier so you can be sure the food is free of parasites and harmful bacteria. If you want to feed your betta fish some commercially processed foods once in a while you can crush up betta pellets or granules and sprinkle a very small amount into the tank to see if the fry will accept it

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Betta fish things can get complicated when trying to discern the emotions of another species. Sometimes owners may not even be as focused on the Betta’s emotional health as their physical. While trying to figure out a Betta’s emotional status may sound like a taxing time, happy fish behavior is simple to figure out. Bettas have quite a few signs of their emotional state. Keep on reading to for the key signs you will need to look out for to tell if your betta fish is happy. You will see what happy betta fish behavior looks like and what environment they will be most content in! Happy Betta Fish Behavior When looking out for a Betta’s emotional status you will need to spend a small portion of time checking on them each day. Generally, a betta fish will keep a consistent pattern in the way they act unless something is wrong with them or their environment. The first thing to monitor with Betta happiness is their eating habits. Betta’s are a breed of fish that love to gobble up as much food as they can. A healthy happy Betta will actively start to eat as soon as his meal is put into the tank. Your Betta should always have a big appetite if they are happy. Next, make sure that your Betta is energetic. If your Betta isn’t zipping around his tank from time to time, that’s not good. A healthy and happy Betta should be swimming around a fair amount. This should increase even more when you’re in their presence. Healthy Betta’s are interactive fish who will follow you around the tank. You will notice your fish tends to swim up and down the side of the tank actively. They should also swim to the top quickly whenever they are looked down upon. With this, your Betta should be doing things in preparation for attracting a mate. Breeding is one of the most natural instincts any animal in their prime will want to do. Finding a bubble nest on the water’s surface is a good sign your betta is both happy and healthy. Signs of Depression in a Betta You also will need to know what to look out for in depressed betta fish, as well. There are a number of signs to watch out for to tell you if your Betta is becoming depressed. If you notice these signs immediately start trying to better your fish’s environment. The number one sign that they may be stressed or unhappy is there eating habits. While a happy Betta fish will scarf down food, a depressed Betta will barely eat. If your Betta is picking at his food or starts to ignore it then that’s a huge red flag. Much like in people, depression in fish can cause loss of appetite. This can also be noticed through your Betta looking slimmer than usual or sickly. Additionally, if you start to notice more food waste uneaten at the bottom of the tank there may be a problem. The activity level of your Betta suddenly decreasing is another huge sign of a problem. A depressed Betta will start to loaf around the tank more. Sometimes you will notice that he just seems to float in one spot for an extended period of time. If this happens when you go near your Betta’s tank this is an even bigger sign. A betta will usual react when humans are near. If your betta seems to be hiding a lot or just hovering in their tank, this is a sure sign something has gone wrong. Faded color or a clammed up fins are also strong indicators of depression. You also may notice aggressive or very irregular swimming patterns in some Bettas. Bodywise, look for color blemishes or unnatural stress stripes. How To Keep Your Betta Happy One of the major mistakes many Betta owners make is putting them in a small bowl or jar. A betta fish actually needs a good sized tank to properly get around in. We recommend at least a 5-gallon tank for the happiest betta fish (or bigger). The smallest tank size is 2.5 gallons but again we would recommend bigger than that. Check out some of our recommended betta fish tanks here. By having a bigger tank you can add more to your Betta’s environment. A healthy Betta environment should consist of plenty of plants (preferably not plastic). There also should be several hide-away spots for your Betta to rest in. If your Betta feels too vulnerable in their home it can lead to stress. With a bigger tank, you will also need to stay on top of maintenance. A dirty tank or a tank that’s isn’t properly cycled can quickly deteriorate your fish’s mood and health. By keeping up with the water quality you are eliminating a huge cause for later health issues. With this, you should also make sure to appropriately feed your fish. Never feed your Betta more than they can eat in a 2-minute time frame. Lastly, try adding fish toys (yeah they exist!) into the tank. By keeping your Betta in an active environment they won’t get bored. More and more fish toys are becoming available on the market every day to help stimulate your tank environment. You also can read more about Best idea for make betta fish tank The Effects of Happiness A Betta’s mental status can have huge effects on their overall health. A depressed Betta is more susceptible to getting sick than an emotionally fulfilled fish. Keeping your betta fish happy can be a huge help if you have had a lot of issues with things like Fin Rot in the past. While giving your Betta a big tank and buying them toys may sound strange, it’s the same as owning any other pets. Fish are living creatures that need special care and stimulation to stay content. While it may make fish care a little more complicated to add in toys, it’s worth it in the end for a healthy pet.

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Choosing your first betta fish. So you have seen all the beautiful pictures, you have done the research and you have decided that a betta fish is the right pet for you! Good choice! But what do you need to know before buying your betta fish? And what tips are there to ensure you choose a healthy betta fish? First step: You should set up your aquarium before buying a betta fish. Aquariums should be cycled before adding fish. Usually around two weeks. Check out our guides on choosing an ideal betta fish tank and how to set up a betta fish tank. arge national pet-stores are often not recommended for live-stock of fish. There have been too many examples of neglect (dead fish in tanks / tanks not maintained). Choosing your first betta fish with healthy There are even examples of Siamese fighting fish being sold in tiny little cups from large national stores – these should be avoided at all costs. This is not a healthy environment for a betta fish. The water will get dirty very quickly because there is so little of it – this leads to many betta fish illnesses. This means you are more likely to buy an ill fish but also we believe this storage of a living animal is animal cruelty and shouldn’t be supported. Some betta fish lovers opt to buy these betta fish claiming they are ‘saving’ them – their heart is in the right place however buying these fish is only supporting the trade. Wherever you choose to buy your fish make sure that all the tanks in the shop are well maintained and never buy a fish from an aquarium that includes a dead or a visibly ill fish.

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WHAT IS WILD BETTA? Thai word for wild bettas There are over 70 species of fish that fall under the genus of ‘Betta’. These 70 odd species are then organised into groups usually called ‘complexes’, which consist of closely related species. Betta splendens is a member of the ‘Splendens’ complex, along with five other species. One of the main threats facing Betta splendens in the wild, is hybridisation with the released/escaped ornamental or fighting strains of Betta splendens. The ornamental form of Betta splendens that the majority of us on this forum keep, is a purely man-made strain. To me, the term ‘wild betta’ simply means a fish where there’s been no selective breeding undertaken to alter appearance or behaviour. This is why you can have a captive bred ‘wild betta’. It has nothing to do with whether or not the fish is actually wild-caught. You can still find Betta fish in the wild, it’s just that pure specimens are considerably rarer. Channoides There’s always the debate over ethics when it comes to wild-caught fish. Sadly many species of wild betta are teetering on the brink due to habitat destruction. Their only future is in the hobby, and so it’s important that these fish find their way into hobbyists’ tanks. All of my foundation breeding stock is wild-caught, except for my Betta persephone as the particular locality I have is now extinct in the wild as I think a highway got built over/through their habitat. Wild-caught bettas usually integrate well into life in captivity. In fact if you walked into my fish room, you would not be able to tell the difference between the wild-caught individuals and the captive bred individuals as they are equally ‘friendly’ and curious. The male in my display photo is a wild-caught fish, and I can assure you, he would not look like this if his needs weren’t being met. Problems with wild betta is that they are picky eaters and their colours are not as vibrant as household betta fishes. However there are some people that like wild bettas. Below is a very informative channel on wild bettas and how wild betta are put to battle.

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How to make food for betta fry ip to make food for betta fry 3-15 days if not use liquifry or artemia And this is the method Nice Betta Thailand Farm use to raise betta fish to this day. When we are unable to provide fresh food to the baby betta fish How to make food for betta fry eggs for fish to eat with pictures The food that is given to betta fish fry is steamed eggs. Let’s see step by step with photos. Step 1 Prepare egg and a cup. Step 2 Crack eggs into a cup and poured water in as well As for how much water to pour? This depends on how soft the eggs you want. Normally, Nice Betta Farm uses the guess method of taking Try and see for yourself. be careful!! Add too little water and the eggs will be hard and the fish won’t eat them because…it’s hard to eat. If you add too much water, the eggs won’t harden. If you give it to the fish to eat, it’s a mess…water rots easily. Step 3 Stir the eggs together. Step 4 Put the scrambled eggs into the pot. No need to add fish sauce. or soy sauce into the eggs Because we make it for fighting fish only. You can choose to add a little sea. But it shouldn’t be iodized salt. Step 5 Bring water to a boil and wait until the eggs are cooked. Step 6 Once the eggs are cooked, they will be about as soft as this like the picture. Step 7 Wash and clean through a sieve to make it smaller. Should be cleaned through a sieve to make it small several times. until there is no egg oil left. After that, give it to the baby fish immediately. remember sprinkled just a bit really!! as if most, and the rest, can contaminate water and cause death interchangeable fry. Food for betta fry Please note that this is how Nice Betta Thailand farm raises their 7 – 45 day old fry, which may include other foods such as: Artimea and Daphnia

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Can betta fish live with gold fish? Throughout the time we have been in the betta fish industry for more than 15 years+ betta fish live with gold fish? is a question that comes up very often. There are many reasons why these two fish cannot be tank mates. First of all a betta fish is a tropical fish, originating in the waters of Thailand, the betta needs waters of 78 – 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Goldfish however prefer cooler waters of around 74 degree Fahrenheit. Can a betta fish live with gold fish together? Goldfish produce a lot of fish waste, leading to high levels of ammonia in the water which is toxic to betta fish. It dirties the water in the tank quickly, meaning that larger more frequent water changes need to be made. Large and frequent water changes stress betta fish (although they are better than leaving your fish in dirty water!). The number one rule when you think about what fish can live with your betta fish is no fin nippers! Guess what… Goldfish can be bad fin nippers! That does not go well with the long delicate fins of a betta – that or the betta’s short temper! Another difference is their diets. Betta fish are carnivores – living off small insect larvae in the wild. Goldfish however, are omnivores meaning that they require both vegetation and protein. Betta fish specific food is not recommended for goldfish.

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Betta Fish Like Light? Yes, Betta fish like light, and no, Betta fish don’t like light. Make sense? Ok, let me explain, Betta fish prefer a schedule where they have regular light and dark periods so that they can get into a normal sleeping pattern. Bettas like light so that they know when to wake up and prefer a darker environment to sleep. You may have an aquarium light on your tank and if so, it is probably best for you to turn this on when you wake up in the morning and turn it off just before bed time. This will give your Betta a regular sleeping pattern that matches yours. When you think about it, of course Betta fish do like light, they come from the tropics in Thailand where there is a lot of sunlight! If you don’t want your siamese fighting fish to live in a stressful environment, then you should provide some sort of light source for your fish. Some lights can even come with a timer so that your light will automatically turn on and off at the scheduled times. Do Betta fish like Sun Light? Keeping your tank in direct sunlight is not a good idea. Depending on where you live, direct sunlight could also heat up the water – leading to your tank overheating and your betta getting ill (or almost cooking). Direct sunlight can also lead to excess algae growth which will mean your tank will have dirty water which will require cleaning more often. The main thing to remember is that your Betta will do better in a stable sort of environment. That means having a regular schedule of light and darkness for your fish. You want your new little friend to be happy and healthy and keeping him in this sort of home is what is best for him to live for several years to come.

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Raise betta Fry, The first egg layer I ever spawned was Betta splendens. I did this in a five gallon metal framed aquarium with no heater. Now those of you who know anything about how Betta fish love warm water for spawning are going to be a bit skeptical about this statement, but I kept the water warm by keeping the incandescent light in the metal hood lit continuously. I don’t know how those fish coped with no night time, but they did. Keeping the tank lit all the time had a side benefit. I wound up having a small culture of infusoria going in the tank, which provided a good source of food for the fry (the fry are raised in the same tank as they were spawned in). These days, I try to use a little more sophisticated methods to accomplish the same result. Raise betta fry The starting point for accomplishing this result is that I use floating water sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides) as the support material for the bubble nest. Dwarf Gouramis particularly appreciate this plant as a nest site. The water sprite usually comes from a well established aquarium and I can’t confirm it as a scientific fact, but there seems to be an association of micro-organisms with the water sprite. These days I use fluorescent lighting, but I make sure that I have good intensity so that the water sprite, as well as algae, gets a good start in the spawning tank. As the breeders are being conditioned in the same tank, there may be left over food. A very small amount will also help the in-tank culture, but too much can spoil the tank. If the tank is not greening up with algae, I might also use a little trick that I learned from raising fry. I might put a very small amount of egg infusion into the tank.

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Betta Fish Feeding Guide Which is the best If we talk about betta fish feeding. A good daily portion of food for an adult betta fish is about 1.8 grams, but it doesn’t have to be exact. This applies regardless of the type of food you are feeding your betta. A betta keeper is not expected to meticulously weigh out 1.8 grams of food everyday, especially when a betta is on a diet of different types of food. However, if you are unsure of the amount to feed your betta, you may like to weigh out 1.8 grams of your chosen food the first time you use it so that you get a rough approximation of what the portion size should be. Some bettas will happily consume more than 1.8 grams, and you do not need to strictly adhere to this number, but it’s a good amount (as a rule of thumb) to aim for in order to maintain the health of the fish. When to feed a betta fish It’s a good practice to feed a betta fish one whole portion once a day, or two half portions twice a day. We recommend the twice-a-day feed as it’ll keep your betta that little bit more happy and stimulated. Bettas are very intelligent compared to other fish, so if you stick to a feeding time, chances are they’ll remember it. Betta fish feeding which is best food? It’s very important to give your betta a varied diet in order to keep it happy. Bettas love live food. If it isn’t of that much inconvenience, consider substituting the pellets for live food on a daily basis. A betta can live purely on live foods but not purely on pellets. Move your betta onto live food as soon as possible — no transition phase is needed.

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Premium betta fish shop We can say here are the best Thailand betta fish shop by Nice Betta Thailand farm and the best of Asia gurantee with any biggest competition. You can find any high quality of healthy and colorful and rare betta for sale. Featuring brights colors and elegant, flowing fins betta are perfect from this page and all fish from us ready to breed 100% are high quality fry. Let’s us be in your heart if you think about betta fish please think about us. We will serve you to enjoy the premium fish for your aquarium as much possible. When it comes to best quality betta fish, there’s no better place to find championship quality than Thailand. And when it comes to finding the very best Betta fish breeders in Thailand, we’ve got you covered. Our selection of Rare Betta Fish for sale comes from our farm with legendary breeders more than 20 years experiens Somkiat Aquastar71 in the country, including those who have bred championship-winning fish. Each one is handpicked for its superior quality, stunning colors, and exquisite patterns. Nice Betta Thailand top3 of the best Betta fish farm and betta fish shop in the world breeds new breeds of Betta fish, new colors and new species and healthy into the Betta fish industry for our customers all the time. Why some betta fish are expensive? For Nice Betta Thailand, the price of a betta fish can be high is the new color or have strange markings such as a mask or stripes along the body like a rare betta fish or something rare that can be seen as a unique betta or a betta fish that has been developed so that no one else has it like our Ultra rare betta fish collection. How expensive can betta fish get? The betta fish itself generally doesn’t cost much. You can expect to pay $5 to $50 dollars for one betta fish. Certain varieties that are considered rare betta can cost up to $300, usually from a breeder like Nice Betta Farm. The cost of the betta is influenced by the variety, sex, age, and overall health of the betta. There is also a fighting fish that has been auctioned for more than 1530 USD, starting at 3 USD. You also can read more The most expensive betta fish

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A Beginners Guide to Setting up a Betta Fish Tank Setting up your first betta fish tank can be somewhat intimidating, but it shouldn’t be scary! In fact, it is good if you do feel a little worried, it proves you care and want to learn. This post will cover important steps you should take in order to create the perfect setting for a betta fish tank, it will state the importance of water cycling and give you tips for taking care of your new fish. Getting the perfect set up The tank have you chosen your bettas home yet? We have selected and reviewed some of our favorite betta fish tanks in this guide. Here are a few tips on choosing your own… We recommend 5 gallon (20 – 25 litre tank) or more, this will ensure you have the healthiest and happiest betta fish – which is what having a pet is all about. Another tip is that is is also good to have an aquarium that is longer than high. This isn’t too important but if we were to think of the betta fish’s natural environment – shallow streams – you will see that water depth isn’t too important but longer horizontally swim areas would be of benefit. Position the tank where there is no direct sunlight, but still remains open and visible. Bettas like attention and don’t like dark corners of the room. Do I need a filter for my betta fish? A filter is a must to help keep the water cleaner for longer. However betta fish do not like strong flowing water / currents. So what is recommended is a gentle aquarium filter, or one that has an adjustable flow. The filter will keep the water clean and healthy for the fish. The filter should have a manual that shows you how to set it up. After adding it to the aquarium make sure that it works and hopefully it won’t be creating too strong of a current. If you think the filter is too strong and your filter isn’t adjustable you could create a baffle from an inexpensive tank divider or make sure there are a few plants in the way to break the current. Does a betta fish need a heater? Betta fish are from tropical waters. The water temperature they like is around 77 – 80 degree Fahrenheit. This means that in most countries, yes you should have a heater on your tank. It is important to keep temperatures at a constant. Fluctuations can be dangerous to your fish’s health. This is the job of the aquarium heater, it includes a thermostat ensuring a constant correct temperature even if the temperature in your house goes up and down. We have reviewed some ideal aquarium heaters and produced a guide here. On very small tanks having a heater can be dangerous to the fish’s health due to the temperature of the water warming and cooling too fast. (But we know that betta fish should not be kept in small tanks anyways. ) Beginner betta fish tip: When using large gravel uneaten pieces of betta fish food fall and place themselves down the gaps of the pieces of gravel. This is hard to clean and leads to dirty water. Smaller finer gravel will help combat this. If you want to use live plants you may have to look into the substrate so that the plants can grow and flourish. Before adding any live plants it is advisable to half fill your tank with water as it helps you to place the plants. Live plants are recommended. Check out our guide for more detailed information on how to add live plants to your aquarium – this offers step by step instructions. Adding some decorations This is a great step! ? Now it is time to make the betta fish aquarium that you have set up look great and be a fun home for your fish buddy. Add some fun aquarium decorations or maybe create a themed tank with the use of some ornaments – there are unlimited possibilities. It is always good to think of whose home it is and cater for their needs though. Betta fish love little hidey holes, nooks and crannys to swim to and from. The traditional and iconic aquarium castle actually makes a great feature to the betta fish tank – and they love hiding in them. Or how about a SpongeBob themed Aquarium? A few things to avoid – Plant pots – there has been a small craze of putting terracotta plant pots in fish tanks. This has led to many fish injuries! The drainage hole of a terracotta plant pot has very sharp edges, and fish (especially betta fish) swim quickly through this hole which can lead to huge and deep grazes. Sharp fake plants – quite often fake aquarium plants are made of plastic. If you buy plastic plants make sure that the leaves do not have sharp edges. Betta fish fins are very delicate; any sharp edges can easily tear a betta fish fin. (Keep this in mind for all your decorations). Don’t put your betta fish in the tank yet… So your tank set up is ready and the decorations look great but the water conditions aren’t quite there yet. PH – an ideal PH is 7 Temperature – 77 – 80 degrees Fahrenheit Ammonia – should be 0 Nitrite – should be 0 A fishless cycle is what is required next. Without a fishless cycle your betta could experience ‘new tank syndrome’ – it can kill fish. Basically what this cycle does is build up beneficial bacteria in the tank / filter. These beneficial bacteria are used in the tank to break down harmful fish waste (ammonia) into a less toxic form, first to nitrite and then down to nitrate. Once this cycle is established your tank should stay at a steady Ammonia reading of 0 and Nitrite reading of 0. A lot can be written on this subject and it’s a whole other blog post but it is important to know! That’s why I have to point you towards another page on the web that says it all. (Yes, I’m pointing you away from my site. Not many other bloggers would do that, but this is a great page that includes a calculator). And now you have set up a betta fish tank! It’s time to choose your new betta fish from the local pet store and add it to the newly setup aquarium. If the aquarium you have chosen is larger than 5 gallons you may also be able to add a tank mate or two, however there are a few things you should know… Firstly, add fish slowly to the newly set up aquarium (not numerous fish in one day), this links back to the nitrogen cycle. Secondly, betta fish have another name that you may be aware of, Siamese fighting fish, they get this name for their aggressive and territorial nature. It is important to know what fish can live with bettas, this blog post will go through the details, but in summary no two betta fish should live together, you should avoid colorful fish with flowing fins and your tank needs 5 gallons of personal space for your betta fish. And remember, please don’t use tiny tanks or vases – the water gets dirty / poisonous fast and limiting the movement of the fish is unhealthy and just plain cruel. Yes, betta fish have evolved to survive in small areas of water for periods of time before finding their way back to a stream but the keyword there is survive – they are not happy or healthy, that isn’t a life! Hope you now have your betta tank set up perfectly with many happy years of friendship ahead of you :). Leave a comment describing your betta fish tank or even better a picture or video and let me know what you thought of the article – or if you would like to add to it.

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Butterfly betta fish or pattern betta fish are a stunning variety of betta fish known for their the colors on the tail fins, which are clearly contrasting in layers and it is most commonly used in betta competition. These fish are native to Southeast Asia (Thailand) and are popular among aquarium hobbyists due to their unique appearance and relatively easy care requirements. Butterfly betta fish are known for their velvety many coloration layer, which can range from a Blue butterfly, Red Butterfly, Mustard Butterfly, Black butterfly, Gold Butterfly and Copper Butterfly. They also have long, flowing fins that resemble an butterfly ETC, hence their name. These fish are generally peaceful and can be kept in a community tank with other non-aggressive fish, as long as they have enough space to swim and hide. However, it’s important to remember that betta fish are territorial and may become aggressive towards other male betta fish, so it’s best to keep them in a single-species tank or with other non-aggressive fish. There are currently several different types of Butterfly betta fish choose to buy according to your preference, but if you are looking for high quality suitable for competitions, here at Nice Betta Thailand betta fish shop, you have come to the right place. Breeding butterfly Bettas can be an exciting endeavor for experienced aquarists. The breeding process typically involves a courtship display where the blue male will build a bubble nest and entice the blue female to spawn. After fertilization, the male takes responsibility for caring for the eggs until they hatch, which usually occurs within 24 to 48 hours. Read more about : How to breeding betta fish In conclusion, the butterfly betta fish is a beautiful because have pattern too when placed in a tank with real plant, the butterfly betta looks even more fascinating, like a butterfly moving around inside your tank and will more good if you add leave plant to the tank. The butterfly betta pattern colors available today and their behavior is no different from other Bettas. They can be easily kept by both novice and experienced fishkeepers, whether as a solo or as part of a carefully selected aquarium community. The Butterfly Betta can bring joy and excitement to any aquatic environment. Proper care, attention and understanding of the fish’s behavior are essential to ensure that the butterfly Betta is healthy and thrives. Nice Betta Thailand is the best place to find butterfly bettas or rare bettas and good genetic gurantee from biggest competition with IBC standard our farm are top 3 every years.

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MYTHS AND THE TRUTH ABOUT BETTA CARE Myth betta care : Bettas can live in tiny bowls. People think “In pet stores they keep bettas in tiny containers… the bowl I am getting is a castle compared to that. My betta fish will be so happy.” OR “In any case, bettas live in small stagnant pools in the wild and, therefore, it is perfectly appropriate to put them in tiny bowls/tanks.” Unfortunately, these are not a good suppositions. The Truth The small containers bettas are kept in the stores are chock full of chemicals to keep bacteria, fungus and parasites at bay. They are unhealthy places for any fish to be in, and they are not meant to be long term homes. Bettas do live in shallow pools in rice fields in Thailand. But, these puddles are interconnected And can extend for miles. If the puddle the betta is in gets stagnant, the betta has the ability to (and they do indeed) swim to another puddle or, if it is the dry season, jump up to 6 inches into another pool (or even from puddle to puddle until they reach one that has appropriate parameters). In addition, the water they are in is continually refreshed with rainwater and decaying matter. In an aquarium, they are stuck and it is up to us to refresh the water and keep their tanks clean and non-toxic through routine partial water changes. The minimum size tank that you should keep a betta in is 3 gallons. 5-10 gallons is ideal. The smaller the tank the more you have to work on upkeep.

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How to Train Betta Fish. Yes, It Can Be Done Tip to train betta fish. Easy step by step learning how to train and play with your betta fish. To make your betta fish respond better suitable for competition bettas or exercise games between each other. Practice train betta fish Training betta fish. Playing with betta fish is not only fun for you or preparing your betta for the competition. It also makes your fighting fish more healthy. Exercise for fighting fish is therefore important. Reduces various problems of fighting fish such as Dropsy and lazy fighting fish symptoms.

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All of Betta Fish A Guide on Patterns, Color in the world Betta Fish are among the most popular freshwater fish around the world. They are so well loved due to the many different shapes and colors which they can be said is King of beautiful fish. There are so many variations that Betta Fish are usually classified by their colors, patterns and tail type. Their aggressive behavior is often off putting for newcomers to the hobby and they are more beauty when they aggressive. However if properly fed and cared for, you shouldn’t have any problems. Betta fish, also known as Siamese fighting fish, are very common with beginner aquarists. They are small and colorful fish with striking personalities. They have been cross bred and develop over years creating the most amazing colorations and tail variations. They do not require a lot of maintenance just good water temperature and food and their physiology and behavior is quite captivating and amazing. Betta fish colors Now, you can see that the color has evolved dramatically. Let’s see how How any betta farms did the betta fish develop their color and what color come to show in the world? This is example all bettas color breeding by Nice Betta Thailand.CO.,LTD and some of rare betta fish color in this moment 2024 and some betta colors have become extinct as well.

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Blue betta fish or solid blue and Royal blue super blue are a stunning variety of betta fish known for their deep blue and metallic scales flowing fins. These fish are native to Southeast Asia (Thailand) and are popular among aquarium hobbyists due to their unique appearance and relatively easy care requirements. Blue betta fish are known for their velvety blue coloration, which can range from a deep, dark blue to a lighter, almost blue-metallic shade. They also have long, flowing fins that resemble an fariy, hence their name. These fish are generally peaceful and can be kept in a community tank with other non-aggressive fish, as long as they have enough space to swim and hide. However, it’s important to remember that betta fish are territorial and may become aggressive towards other male betta fish, so it’s best to keep them in a single-species tank or with other non-aggressive fish. There are currently several different types of Blue betta fish available today, but if we cut out using the various strain names of many different breeders, we are left with the most popular: Breeding Blue betta fish Breeding blue Bettas can be an exciting endeavor for experienced aquarists. The breeding process typically involves a courtship display where the blue male will build a bubble nest and entice the blue female to spawn. After fertilization, the male takes responsibility for caring for the eggs until they hatch, which usually occurs within 24 to 48 hours.

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Champions Bloodline Black Betta Fish. Black betta fish solid black or supoer black are a stunning variety of betta fish known for their deep black coloration and long, flowing fins. These fish are native to Southeast Asia (Thailand) and are popular among aquarium hobbyists due to their unique appearance and relatively easy care requirements. Black orchid betta fish are known for their velvety black coloration, which can range from a deep, dark black to a lighter, almost blue-black shade. They also have long, flowing fins that resemble an orchid flower, hence their name. These fish are generally peaceful and can be kept in a community tank with other non-aggressive fish, as long as they have enough space to swim and hide. However, it’s important to remember that betta fish are territorial and may become aggressive towards other male betta fish, so it’s best to keep them in a single-species tank or with other non-aggressive fish. In conclusion, the black betta fish is a beautiful too when placed in a bright tank, the black betta looks even more fascinating, like a black hole moving around inside your tank. The black betta colors available today and their behavior is no different from other Bettas. They can be easily kept by both novice and experienced fishkeepers, whether as a solo or as part of a carefully selected aquarium community. The black Betta can bring joy and excitement to any aquatic environment. Proper care, attention and understanding of the fish’s behavior are essential to ensure that the armageddon Betta is healthy and thrives.

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Nice Betta Thailand.CO.,LTD posted an update in the group Betta fish community
3 days, 1 hours ago
Nice Betta Thailand.CO.,LTD posted an update in the group Betta fish community
5 days, 23 hours ago
Nice Betta Thailand.CO.,LTD posted an update in the group Betta fish community
1 weeks ago

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