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Nice Betta Thailand.CO.,LTDThis wallet account is Animalverse Club NFTs holder has been verified & be apart of council

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Nice Betta Thailand.CO.,LTD

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  • How do I look after my betta fish when I am on vacation
  • We appreciate Animalverse Social for the best place for our work We will share to everyone join black marketplace I hope this will help my friends to have a place to sell their betta fish, create jobs and create a good career.
  • Using Indian almond leaves in aquariums Why do aquarists use Indian almond leaves? The poor man’s water conditioner Indian almond leaves are often described as ”the poor man’s water conditioner” due to their capacity of altering the water chemistry in an aquarium. In the wild, fish evolve to fit into their particular habitat and having to live in another type of environment in captivity is often difficult for them. Even if your betta fish manages to survive in less than ideal conditions, there is a great difference between thriving and merely staying alive. If your betta fish hails from a habitat where leaves and other plant debris regularly falls into the water and decompose, your fish will be used to that kind of environment and trying to mimic it in the aquariums is strongly recommended. Leaves that fall into the water release a myriad of different compounds, from trace minerals to dyes, and animals living in the water adapt to having all these different compounds readily available. When we place fish in our “clean” and rather unnatural aquariums, we in avertedly deprive them of access to a long row of different compounds present in their native habitat. If your fish hails from the type of environment described above, Indian almond leaves are one way of making life in captivity a little more natural for your pet. Just like driftwood and peat, Indian almond leaves release ample amounts of tannins into the water. The tannins affect the pH-value (how much will depend on the buffer capacity of your water) and you will also see how the water turns dark – just like a blackwater river. Needless to say, water rich in tannins is appreciated by fish species that hail from such environments in the wild. So called blackwater habitats are formed when rivers flow slowly through heavily forested areas where falling leaves and other plant debris end up decomposing in the water. You can find more detailed information about the chemistry of Indian almond leaves in on the Indian almond leaves chemistry page. That page also includes a section on blackwater habitats. N.B! Using almond leaves will give the water in your aquarium a yellow to reddish tea-coloured shade. Exactly how dark the water gets depends on the concentration of tannins in the water. Some aquarists dislike this tint which they find unsightly, but try to keep in mind that for fish hailing from blackwater habitats this dark water is actually the normal state of things and the crispy “clean” 100% transparent water without any hint of colour favoured by many aquarists is quite unnatural for them. Indian almond leaves prevent and cure diseases in aquariums? Indian almond leaves are rich in compounds produces by the tree to protect itself against bacteria, fungi and similar organisms. Because of this, it has been speculated that adding Indian almond leaves to an aquarium will decrease the risk of disease in the tank or even help fish. As far as I know, no one has yet carried out any scientific study to verify this claim. Compounds found in Indian almond leaves have however been researched for their potential health benefits for the human body. Quercetin, a type of flavonoid found in Indian almond leaves, is for instance considered anti-inflammatory and has antioxidant properties1 , while several other flavonoids present in these leaves – such as kaempferol – decrease the risk of developing certain types of cancer. Fish kept in an environment that mimic its natural habitat tend to grow stronger and heartier, i.e. more apt at fending off malicious microorganisms. As an aquarists, it is therefore difficult to determine if Indian almond leaves actually cures and prevent disease by killing of bacteria and fungi, or if it is simply a question of the leaves boosting the fish’s own immune system by providing it with an ideal water quality when it comes to pH-value, tannins, etc. Natural hiding spots and infusoria supply Using Indian almond leaves is not just about chemistry. You may think leaf litter looks ugly, but for a long row of fishes it feels just like home. Leaves and leaf litter makes the environment more natural. Bottom dwelling fish love to hide among sunken leaves, while surface and mid-water dwellers like the sense of security offered by floating leaves. Indian almond leaves are also nice for fish and invertebrates to nibble on between meals, and the leaves serve as home and food for infusoria. Can Indian almond leaves be used to change the sex ratio of Betta fish? A lot of rumours circulate about South-East Asian Betta breeders using Indian almond leaves to increase the male-to-female ratio in the batches. Personally, I’ve noticed no difference in sex ratio when using Indian almond leaves. When do aquarists use Indian almond leaves? What fish will like Indian almond leaves and what won’t? Indian almond leaves are ideal for fish that hails from environments where the water is rich in leaf debris. A few examples of such fishes are bettas and other gouramis, blackwater tetras, discus, rasboras and many dwarf cichlids. You need to research your particular species to see if it hails from this type of water. Indian almond leaves are not recommended for fish that like hard and alkaline water, such as African cichlids from the Great Rift Valley lakes. Examples of situations when Indian almond leaves are commonly used Some aquarists use Indian leaves all the time, while others use them only for special purposes, i.e. when the feel that their fish needs some extra pampering. It is especially common to use IAL… When setting up a new aquarium When a new fish is introduced to an aquarium To induce breeding, especially in Betta fish When setting up and maintaining a fry aquarium When a fish is sick, especially if the sickness affects the skin In the plastic transport bag when a fish is moved to a new home When keeping delicate fish species that are considered difficult to keep and breed in captivity If you use Indian almond leaves all the time, remember that you may have to “wean” your fish off them if you plan on selling your fish to an aquarist that won’t use Indian almond leaves. A fish that has been raised among Indian almond leaves or spent a long time in an IAL-tank may not handle a rapid move to a different environment well. How do aquarists use Indian almond leaves? Preparations Keep your Indian almond leaves in a dry place at room temperature until you wish to use them. Dry leaves can be stored for at least 6 months in a suitable environment (preferably a container that is airtight, watertight and prevents light from entering). If the tree may have been sprayed with pesticides or grows in a big city with lots of pollution, rinse the Indian almond leaves well in tap water before placing it in your tank. Do not use Indian almond leaves that are mouldy. Remove active carbon, purigen and similar from the aquarium before adding your Indian almond leaves. If you’re in a hurry, you can cut the leaves into smaller pieces since this will make them leach their content into the water more rapidly. Dosage Dosages below are based on 15-25 cm (6-10 in) leaves. If your leaf is smaller or bigger, you need to adjust the figures accordingly. Using 2 leaves per 50 L (13 us gallons) of water is a good rule of thumb, but be prepared to adjust the dosage to suit your particular fish. Some Betta keepers routinely use up to 2 leaves per 15 L (4 us gallons) of water in their everyday tanks. Betta breeders normally use 1 leaf per 20 L (5 us gallons) of water in breeding tanks. In fry rearing tanks, use 1 leaf per 40 L (10 us gallons) of water. For how long? Unless you anchor the leaves using a rock or similar, they will normally float for 2-3 days before sinking. Sinking is natural and it doesn’t mean that your have to change the leaves. The leaves will normally disintegrate after a month or two, depending on how actively your fish tries to destroy them. Aquarists that dislike the sight of torn leaves normally replace the leaves every 2-3 week, but this is purely for aesthetical reasons. There is usually no need to change the leaves more often than every second month. Indian almond leaves in fry tanks In a fry tank, Indian almond leaves are beneficial in several different ways. In addition to all the positive effects described above, the leaves serve as home and food for infusoria; minute aquatic creatures like ciliates, euglenoids, and protozoa. Due to its size and nutritional content, infusoria is an excellent food source for newly hatched fry from a long row of species. In addition to this, many species of fry are naturally inclined to hide among leaves and leaf litter and will feel safer and less stressed in a fry tank that isn’t completely barren. Indian almond leaf for hospital tank Instead of routinely adding Indian almond leaves to the aquarium, some aquarists prefer to set up a separate IAL-tank and let their fish spend some time in it when the fish seem to be a bit under the weather, e.g. due to skin abrasions. This is not a quick fix – you should be prepared to let your fish stay in the hospital tank for at least 2-3 weeks. (Having a separate hospital tank will also prevent spreading of infectious disease and keep other more healthy fish in the main aquarium from taking advantage of a weakened tank mate.) As always, the hospital tank must naturally be very similar to the ordinary aquarium when it comes to temperature etc, otherwise your will shock your fish. Traditional conditioning for Siamese Fighting fish According to professional breeders of Siamese Fighting fish in South East Asia, Indian almond leaves will harden and coat the skin of the fish, thus making it more apt for fighting. The idea is that Siamese fighers living without Indian almond leaves have softer skin and scales that aren’t smooth and slippery enough to handle being bitten by other fighters. The fish is therefore conditioned using Indian almond leaves for at least seven days prior to a fight. A clay pot is filled with clean, aged water, the leaves are added, and the fish will live in the pot and be fed live food once a day. The pot is placed in a dark and quite place to help the fish prepare. After a fight, a similar treatment is given to help the fish recover from its injuries. Frequently Asked Questions Is it true that Indian almond leaves remove heavy metals from the aquarium? I come across this claim now and then, but I have seen no explanation for exactly how it would work or any scientific studies regarding IAL and heavy metals. Bogwood is commonly used among aquarists to reduce the toxicity of metals; perhaps decaying leaf matter works in a similar way. When organic matter (i.e. not just Indian almond leaves) are turned into humus by bacteria and fungi, toxic substances such as heavy metals can be chelated, i.e. bound to the complex organic molecules of humus. This can prevent the metals from entering the wider ecosystem, but will not remove them. For us aquarists, it means that the heavy metals will still be present in our tanks – only bonded to humus. I have never used copper based medication in an aquarium together with Indian almond leaves so I can’t tell if the leaves decrease the effectiveness of the medicine or not. Can I use Indian almond leaves in my planted tank? Yes, Indian almond leaves can safely be used in planted aquariums. Of course, plants that like alkaline waters won’t appreciate the drop in pH-value, but why would you keep such plants with acidic loving fish in the first place? Can I combine Indian almond leaves with activated carbon or purigen? Activated carbon, purigen and similar will decrease the effect of Indian almond leaves and should therefore be removed from the aquarium prior to IAL use. Is there any way of getting rid of the colour? If you for some reason wish to get the tannins out of the water, you can use activated carbon or simply do a lot of water changes. Just remember that the positive properties of the Indian almond leaf will vanish as well. Alternatives to using whole leaves Indian almond leaves in a tea bag If you hate the look of Indian almond leaves in your aquarium, there are vendors that sell IAL tea bags to soak in the water. Of course, using teabags will not give your fish any leaf litter to hide among or nibble on. Making your own Indian almond leaf concentrate Another alternative for those who dislike having leaves in the tank is to boil the leaves and make a concentrated Indian almond tea to pour directly into the aquarium water. Simply place the leaves in a pot filled with water and bring to a boil. Boil until the water darkens. The tea can be stored in an airtight bottle in the fridge. Recipe for a 375 L or 100 us gallon aquarium: 15 to 20 leaves (15-25 cm / 6-10 in) 10 L or 2.5 us gallons of water N.B! The tea must naturally have roughly the same temperature as the aquarium water when you add it, i.e. not to warm or too cold. Using Indian almond leaves Summary Indian almond leaves (or catappa leaves) when used properly in the aquarium, although they have the effect of lowering the pH and releasing tannins that make the water color golden tea-colored – they help simulate the natural environment, boost immunity, protect against bacteria and minor fungi, manage the carrier of infusoria which is the food for the fry and small shrimps and create hiding places on the bottom and surface of the water for many fish such as bettas, gurami, discus and tatorras, although some species that like cold water or calcified plugs may not be suitable for this use. In the meantime, Indian almond leaves are quite effective and beneficial for the betta fish.
  • Biography of the Dragon Betta Fish When it comes to betta fish, no one would not know about the “Dragon betta fish Family” fighting fish. It has also been popular for a long time among betta fish lovers because it is a fighting fish that stands out in terms of its scales that are raised and especially thick and strong scales. Characteristics of the Dragon betta Fish There is a clear thickness of the scales. The color of the scales is usually a metallic silvery white. The dorsal fins are often dark or bright to contrast the scales. Found in both short-finned (Halfmoon, Plakad, Crowtail,) and long-finned. In addition to Black dragon, Red dragon, Gold dragon, Blue dragon and Orange Dragon, Dragon type fighting fish also have many other beautiful and interesting colors such as Fancy Dragon. The origin of the dragon betta fish Dragon betta fish was first seen in 2004. Most people will see it on the Aquabid platform from a Thai breeder, Somkiat Aquastar71, who wanted to create a silver/metallic betta with a shiny “dragon scale”. The breed used to breed the starting point of the Dragon betta fish It was a cross between a normal betta fish with a wild Betta Mahachaiensis breed and a metallic betta fish from the Betta splendens breed to get thick and shiny scales, which will be inbreed repeatedly in many generations, taking many years to come out as a pure dragon bloodline. The dragon family that was successful at that time was the Red Dragon Betta Fish. After that, there were more developments and breeding to have a variety of colors such as Black dragon, Gold dragon, and the very rare White dragon. Currently, we rarely see the White dragon color. First half-moon dragon long tail As time passed, this breeder who was already very fond of and fascinated by the long-tailed betta fish and originally had the goal of creating the long-tailed dragon betta fish, started developing it again until the first long-tailed dragon betta fish was born in 2007. Starting in 2005, the long-tailed dragon betta fish was a breed that was used to crossbreed the pure-blooded short-tailed red dragon betta fish with the Mustard color. In the first generation, the resulting betta were not dragon-colored at all. Instead, they were betta fish with green bodies and thick scales and red tails. However, he knew that these fish had dragon betta fish bloodlines and their tails were not very long because their ancestors had short tails. After that, he chose to continue Inbreeding until he got pure blood and the disadvantages of Inbreeding in many generations during that time made the dragon fighting fish often have a high chance of having a Tumor. However, in exchange, the success of seeing the long-tailed dragon fighting fish was achieved in 2007.
  • The Care, Feeding and Breeding of Bettas The fish commonly known as Siamese fighting fish – or simply as bettas, is actually made up of numerous species of fish that all share a similar body type. With that being said, most species of bettas are not widely available in the aquarium hobby, and those found in pet stores are usually from the species betta splendens. There are numerous myths surrounding the natural habitat of the betta, with some people claiming that they can be found living in puddles formed from a single footprint. While that may sound poetic, most bettas inhabit rice paddies, slow moving streams and deep drainage ditches – all of which are significantly larger than a footprint. Betta Fish – The Care, Feeding and Breeding of Bettas (Siamese Fighting Fish) June 21, 2014 by Robert Brand 8 Comments The myth may have originated from the fact that bettas can survive in very small bodies of water for short periods of time. The way that they survive is through the use of a special labyrinth organ, which allows them to breathe air. This adaption also allows them to survive in tiny cups that you seem them in at pet stores, though most don’t remain healthy for long in the cups. All species of bettas remain small in the home aquarium, and betta splendens only grow to a maximum length of around 3 incesh (8 cm). You may occasionally see ones larger than this, but that is the exception and not the rule. Bettas are capable of living for up to five years in the home aquarium, but most rarely see their first birthday due in no small part to the cramped, filthy conditions they are kept in. There have been unconfirmed reports of bettas living up to eight years, but it seems that the average lifespan of a well taken care of betta is between 3-5 years. Housing Bettas endure far worse conditions in the home aquarium than nearly any other fish, with perhaps the exception of goldfish. Most bettas spend their short and miserable lives in small, unheated containers, where they barely have room to turn around. Many bettas quickly die in these environments and there is a theory that they may succumb to fatty liver disease. Fatty liver disease is caused in part by their inability to swim and also from well-intentioned overfeeding. Betta Fish – The Care, Feeding and Breeding of Bettas (Siamese Fighting Fish) June 21, 2014 by Robert Brand 8 Comments Betta Fish Stats Minimum Tank Size:2.5 Gallons (10 Litres) – 5 Gallon Recommended (19 Litres) Care Level: Easy Water Conditions: 6-8 pH and Soft to Hard Temperature: 23-30 °C (73-86 °F) Maximum Size: 3 Inches (8 cm) The fish commonly known as Siamese fighting fish – or simply as bettas, is actually made up of numerous species of fish that all share a similar body type. With that being said, most species of bettas are not widely available in the aquarium hobby, and those found in pet stores are usually from the species B. splendens. There are numerous myths surrounding the natural habitat of the betta, with some people claiming that they can be found living in puddles formed from a single footprint. While that may sound poetic, most bettas inhabit rice paddies, slow moving streams and deep drainage ditches – all of which are significantly larger than a footprint. The myth may have originated from the fact that bettas can survive in very small bodies of water for short periods of time. The way that they survive is through the use of a special labyrinth organ, which allows them to breathe air. This adaption also allows them to survive in tiny cups that you seem them in at pet stores, though most don’t remain healthy for long in the cups. All species of bettas remain small in the home aquarium, and B. splendens only grow to a maximum length of around 3 incesh (8 cm). You may occasionally see ones larger than this, but that is the exception and not the rule. Bettas are capable of living for up to five years in the home aquarium, but most rarely see their first birthday due in no small part to the cramped, filthy conditions they are kept in. There have been unconfirmed reports of bettas living up to eight years, but it seems that the average lifespan of a well taken care of betta is between 3-5 years. Bettas endure far worse conditions in the home aquarium than nearly any other fish, with perhaps the exception of goldfish. Most bettas spend their short and miserable lives in small, unheated containers, where they barely have room to turn around. Many bettas quickly die in these environments and there is a theory that they may succumb to fatty liver disease. Fatty liver disease is caused in part by their inability to swim and also from well-intentioned overfeeding. Even many of the so called “betta containers” and bowls supposedly designed for bettas are far too small for them. It’s actually quite easy to provide a healthy environment for bettas and most will thrive if provided with a 5 gallon (19 litre) heated tank. While a 2.5 gallon (10 litre) tank also works well, it can be difficult to find a proper heater for this size tank. And an aquarium containing a betta should always be heated. It’s also important to remember that for many years bettas were referred to as Siamese fighting fish. Males will not tolerate another betta (male or female) in their tank, and in smaller aquariums they will often fight to the death. There have been some reports of people keeping several male bettas in very large tanks (55 gallons +), but it’s generally not worth the risk. Female bettas are a different story, and with a bit of work you can keep several female bettas in tank together. The minimum tank size for this to work is 29 gallons (110 litres), with larger tanks making it much easier. In larger aquariums females will form a harem – with one dominant female and a clear pecking order beneath her. There may still be some fighting, so keep an eye on the bettas and remove any that become injured for treatment. Bettas don’t require much in the way of filters, and a simple sponge filter or HOB (hang on back) filter are usually more than adequate. It’s important to keep any current to a minimum if you are using an HOB filter, since most male bettas are weighed down by ornamental fins and are not strong swimmers. I would strongly recommend choosing an Aquaclear Power Filter for a betta tank. This filter combines excellent filtration with a durable design, and it will keep your tank sparkling clear for years to come. You can also read the Aquarium Tidings Aquaclear Filter Review here. Male bettas will also appreciate a place in the aquarium to rest near the surface. This can be provided through artificial plants or aquatic plants, and there are also numerous commercial products for this. If you choose to use something artifical, you first need to ensure that it doesn’t have any sharp edges, as bettas fins are extremely delicate. Feeding In the wild betta fish primarily feed on insects, small crustaceans, larvae and small fish. This diet should be replicated as closely as possible in the home aquarium, and can be done through feedings of live and frozen foods. While there is a huge market for speciality betta foods, it seems to be hit and miss whether a betta will accept them. Some will happily gobble down betta pellets and flake foods, while others will completely ignore them even after days of starvation. For the most part, I feed my bettas frozen foods, with occasional offerings of live food. Their favorite frozen foods are bloodworms, blackworms, daphnia and brine shrimp. When it comes to live foods, they love mosquito larvae (illegal to culture in many areas), blackworms, wingless fruit flies and daphnia. It’s important not to overfeed your betta, especially if it is kept in a small aquarium where it doesn’t have much room to swim. Any frozen food cubes should be cut into small pieces and they should only be fed once a day or once every other day. Breeding Breeding bettas can be difficult and can also results in an enormous amount of fry. So you should always be prepared to deal with a betta population explosion and know how you will deal with all the fry before you breed them. One of the biggest problems that you will encounter when breeding bettas, is that if you place a male and female in a tank together, they will immediately set out to murder each other. To get around this problem, you will have to set up two small tanks side by side (they have to be able to see each other) and another larger tank for them to breed in when they’re ready. After a young male and female betta have been placed in a position where they can view each other, they should be conditioned for at least a week by feeding them live food (frozen food may also work). During this time, the female will begin to noticeably plump up as she swells with eggs. After they have been conditioned for at least a week, both fish should be moved to the breeding tank. The tank should have a bare bottom and the only filtration should be a simple sponge filter. Ideally, the tank should be kept at around 80 degrees, but they will still spawn in lower temperatures. When the female is introduced to the breeding tank, the male will begin to flare at her and may show some aggression. If the male attacks the female or causes any significant injury to her fins, they should both be removed until the female has healed from her wounds. Once she has recovered, you can try introducing them to the breeding tank again. If the introduction of the female to the breeding tank is successful, there may still be some aggression from the male, but it should be short lived. The male will quickly divert all of his attention towards building a bubble nest for the eggs. After the nest has been completed, the male will usually mate with the female by wrapping his fins around her and squeezing out her eggs. Immediately after breeding has been completed, the female should be removed from the tank. The male should remain in the tank, and he will scour the tank looking for eggs to place in the bubble nest. Once all the eggs are in the bubble nest, he will guard the nest diligently until the fry are free swimming. The eggs will begin to hatch after 48 hours, and the newly hatched fry can be fed microworms, vinegar eels or baby brine shrimp. If you can find them, walter worms or banana worms are also excellent choices – but they can be relatively difficult to find. The male betta should be removed as soon as the fry are free-swimming and the fry can be raised in the breeding tank, or moved to another tank if required. At around 4 weeks of age, the fry will begin to become aggressive towards each other, and should be removed to their own containers at this point. Some people choose to leave the female fry together, but from past experience it can start to get messy keeping that many bettas together – even juvenile ones. If you choose to keep the females together, they should still be removed to their own containers around the 10 week mark. Feeding and Breeding of Bettas Summary Nice Betta Thailand Farm Emphasis is placed on the importance of maintaining water conditions, providing proper food, and breeding techniques to ensure that the betta fish are healthy and colorful. If the instructions are followed correctly, the breeder can enjoy raising the betta fish and may even succeed in breeding them.
  • How to Prevent and Treat Popeye in Betta Fish
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  • What is a Double tail betta fish? The Double Tail Mixed Colors Male Betta is a variety of Betta with an unusual tail type that differentiates it from other Bettas. The caudal or tail fin of the Double Tail Betta is split all the way to the base into two equal lobes to form two distinct tails. The Double Tail Betta fish has been bred over the years to achieve this tail fin type and is available in a remarkable variety of colors, making each individual a unique living piece of art. Doubletail betta fish The Double Tail Betta shares the same care requirements as other Betta splendens varieties. As such, only one male Betta should be kept in an aquarium. However, the smaller, shorter-finned females may be housed together with caution. If kept in a community aquarium, the Double Tail Betta should be housed with peaceful fish that will not nip at the Betta’s glorious, flowing fins. The ideal environment for the Double Tail Betta is a well-filtered and heated aquarium that maintains a stable temperature between 75° and 86°F. Though other varieties of Bettas are often sold in small bowls in department stores, for the best care, the Double Tail Betta should be kept singly in aquariums of at least 1/4 gallon. The Double Tail Betta also prefers a variety of hiding places amongst the foliage of freshwater plants. Therefore, having a well aquascaped and appropriately-sized aquarium with a filter and heater is essential for the proper care of these otherwise hardy and colorful freshwater aquarium fish. Breeding double tail betta fish For breeding purposes, male and female Double Tail Bettas can be temporarily housed together. Once the female lays the eggs, the eggs are placed inside a bubble nest and tended by the male Betta. Fry appear in about 24 hours and must be fed very small food initially, such as crushed or powdered flakes and newly hatched brine shrimp. Fry will also accept finely chopped hard-boiled egg yolk. The Double Tail Betta fish is a carnivore and its diet should consist of a quality flake food, pelleted Betta diet, frozen or freeze-dried Bloodworms and Brine Shrimp. Learn more about Best food for betta fish. Approximate Purchase Size:1-3/4″ – 2-1/4″
  • Dragon Betta fish Champions Bloodline Dragon betta fish are a stunning variety of betta fish It is characterized by its shiny appearance because its scales are metallic and really strong sclaes look like a Dragon, They are all most bicoloors except fancy dragon or some species may even have a shiny fin together. These fish are native to Southeast Asia (Thailand) and are popular among aquarium hobbyists due to their unique appearance and relatively easy care requirements. Dragon betta fish right now are known for their many coloration like Red Dragon, Yellow Dragon, Black Dragon, Silver Dragon, or Copper Dragon, Gold Dragon, and Fancy Dragon. They also have long, flowing fins and shot fin type that with strong sclaes like dragon, hence their name. These fish are generally peaceful and can be kept in a community tank with other non-aggressive fish, as long as they have enough space to swim and hide. However, it’s important to remember that betta fish are territorial and may become aggressive towards other male betta fish, so it’s best to keep them in a single-species tank or with other non-aggressive fish. There are currently several different types of Dragon betta fish choose to buy according to your preference, but if you are looking for high quality suitable for competitions, here at Nice Betta Thailand betta fish shop, you have come to the right place. What is Dragon betta fish? Dragon betta is a betta fish that has strong scales full body with shinny in Gold Dragon, Black Dragon, Yellow Dragon, Red Dragon, Orange Dragon, White Dragon and White platinum is a part of Dragon genetic too. Other type of Dragon is Fancy Dragon all most none shinny Are Dragon betta fish aggressive? Dragon betta fish aggressive same are other betta fish also and territorial — put two males together in a tank and they will attack each other mercilessly because they are possessive of their territory. Do Dragon bettas change color? No, All Solid color dragon betta fish can’t change color. Just for Fancy dragon only. bettas go through changes as they age. while others fade. It’s a natural part of their lifecycle, so don’t be too alarmed if your older betta isn’t as bright or as they used to be.

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